Break away: Ghosts in the valley
Vahishta Mistry in India
Summer palaces to hospitality, Kashmir has much in store.
Going to Kashmir has always been a dream for me. I’ve been fascinated with the mountains for a long time and Kashmir’s bountiful valleys and deep gorges and snow-capped peaks have been the source of many a day dream. So, earlier this year when I had a chance to finally visit the summer vacation capital of Mughal emperors, British imperialists and basically every important person in the last 200 years, I jumped at the chance.
The other more recent wound that Srinagar is dealing with is the devastating flood of September 2014, which swept into the city at a huge cost to peoples’ lives and their livelihood. Something like 75 per cent of the Kashmiri economy is directly or indirectly bound to tourism, and a natural disaster like the flood ensures many lean years to come, as well as the immediate destruction it brings. Despite being in the city at what should have been the peak season for tourists, I am forced to admit that there’s a ghost town sort of feel to the place, and many of the locals I encounter are quick to tell me that this year, only one fourth of the number of tourists they expected to receive have turned up.
That said, Kashmir is also one of the most hospitable and warm places I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. I was stuck at the airport for a couple of hours, waiting for a friend to arrive on a later flight — literally every single person who was waiting to receive a guest or a relative came up and asked me if everything was okay and if I needed any help, in the most courteous and non-creepy manner. Good luck experiencing that in a large metro!
In fact, I had a first–hand taste of Kashmiri hospitality when my taxi driver, on hearing that I was excited to eat the traditional Wazwan cuisine, instead of recommending me to a restaurant (as I was expecting) instead took me to his home for lunch, where I ate with his family. As I sat replete under a fig tree in his garden, digesting a spectacular meal, it came to me: this is why Kashmir is as popular as it is. The welcoming and open nature of its inhabitants, combined with the natural beauty of the place make it deserving of its title of paradise. And this was just day one — I couldn’t wait to get into the countryside and see what that was all about!
Vahishta Mistry, a 31-year-old marketing professional did something most of us have only dreamed of doing. He sold his possessions and set out to explore the world. Have a question for him? Ping him @vahishta and he’ll answer them here
Summer palaces to hospitality, Kashmir has much in store.
Going to Kashmir has always been a dream for me. I’ve been fascinated with the mountains for a long time and Kashmir’s bountiful valleys and deep gorges and snow-capped peaks have been the source of many a day dream. So, earlier this year when I had a chance to finally visit the summer vacation capital of Mughal emperors, British imperialists and basically every important person in the last 200 years, I jumped at the chance.
The first thing that strikes you about Kashmir and, particularly Srinagar, is how it’s most definitely a state that’s recovering from a troubled past. From the more distant past issue forth the echoes of the militancy years, evident even today in the incredibly well-armed and ubiquitous jawans from the CRPF who patrol almost every street corner. The profusion of weapons and aggressive posturing isn’t limited to the soldiers and the cops, even little kids brandish toy guns at you everywhere you go, making explosion sounds and playing their violent games. It seems normal, but their exposure to violence from a young age — even playful violence — seems slightly off, leaving a slight worm of doubt in your mind about the things they might have seen and experienced, that lead them to act out in this fashion.
The other more recent wound that Srinagar is dealing with is the devastating flood of September 2014, which swept into the city at a huge cost to peoples’ lives and their livelihood. Something like 75 per cent of the Kashmiri economy is directly or indirectly bound to tourism, and a natural disaster like the flood ensures many lean years to come, as well as the immediate destruction it brings. Despite being in the city at what should have been the peak season for tourists, I am forced to admit that there’s a ghost town sort of feel to the place, and many of the locals I encounter are quick to tell me that this year, only one fourth of the number of tourists they expected to receive have turned up.
That said, Kashmir is also one of the most hospitable and warm places I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. I was stuck at the airport for a couple of hours, waiting for a friend to arrive on a later flight — literally every single person who was waiting to receive a guest or a relative came up and asked me if everything was okay and if I needed any help, in the most courteous and non-creepy manner. Good luck experiencing that in a large metro!
In fact, I had a first–hand taste of Kashmiri hospitality when my taxi driver, on hearing that I was excited to eat the traditional Wazwan cuisine, instead of recommending me to a restaurant (as I was expecting) instead took me to his home for lunch, where I ate with his family. As I sat replete under a fig tree in his garden, digesting a spectacular meal, it came to me: this is why Kashmir is as popular as it is. The welcoming and open nature of its inhabitants, combined with the natural beauty of the place make it deserving of its title of paradise. And this was just day one — I couldn’t wait to get into the countryside and see what that was all about!
Vahishta Mistry, a 31-year-old marketing professional did something most of us have only dreamed of doing. He sold his possessions and set out to explore the world. Have a question for him? Ping him @vahishta and he’ll answer them here
