All-deaf pizzeria is all-good: Human communication is more than words

Melody Stein always dreamed of opening a world-class pizzeria — and as with everything else in life, she wasn’t going to let being deaf get in her way.

"I always wanted to become the third generation in the family to own and manage a restaurant,” she said. "Being deaf, I thought it was a far-fetched dream, but thanks nowadays due to change of attitudes and laws, I felt I had the chance. So, when my husband, Russell, said he would support me, I went for it!"

In January 2011, Melody traveled to Italy to study the art of pizza-making and immerse herself in Italian food, preparation and techniques. She took classes in Rome, Sorrento and Positano. After perfecting their recipes, the couple opened Mozzeria in December 2011 in San Francisco, and has used the business to help other deaf people find work. Mozzeria is staffed entirely by deaf employees.

"When we first opened, we decided to hire some hearing and deaf employees," Russell said. "Some deaf people contacted us asking if we had any job openings, and that was when we realized we were denying them opportunities whereas hearing employees could leave the job anytime and be able to find another job in no time. Over time, however, I felt that we should be extending opportunities to deaf people who otherwise experience obstacles in getting opportunities, training or employment. We thought the time had come to go all-deaf. We have never regretted this decision."

Both Melody and Russell believe deaf people have a more difficult time finding jobs than people who can hear. It didn’t matter to the Steins if their first employees had restaurant experience. They invested their time and training in their employees, and most of them have passed their one-year anniversary with Mozzeria.

With employee turnover low, the Steins could focus on what they do best — making pizza, and that’s paid off. Zagat named its Peking Duck pizza one of the 10 best dishes in the Bay Area. Other menu items range from Margherita pizza to Hosui Pear pizza, and Mozzeria also recently opened a food truck.

"The food truck has been a phenomenal addition to our restaurant," Melody said. "Between our brick-and-mortar and the mobile trolley, we find we can accommodate catering requests of all types and variety. It has been an energetic journey and we are still on a high!"

Making it work

Melody is the big-picture person.

"I oversee the daily operations at the restaurant," she said. "I keep the front- and the back-of-the-house running."

Russell is more focused on the bottom line.

"Sometimes I see things a certain way and she sees them a little differently," he said "But in the end, we know it’s not about us. It’s about the business. The goal is to make Mozzeria the best possible place; for our customers, for our community and to be profitable."

Bringing it all together is the staff. Deaf customers can be understood by and communicate with every Mozzeria team member, from pizza makers to dishwashers.

Mozzeria, however, is not exclusive. Hearing customers are frequent, and there are sounds at the restaurant. Guests can be heard talking and there’s the typical kitchen audio — food being chopped, sizzling pans and dishes and utensils being used.

Nevertheless, it’s a more quiet dining experience than can be had at other establishments. Customers who do not know sign language often point to what they want on the menu. The  staff establish their own communication with diners, usually with just a smile and a nod. It’s a visual experience for hearing customers, from the way the food looks, to communication with the staff to the atmosphere.

Mozzeria has a dining area, as well as a bar serving local wines, beers on tap and house-made drinks. The wood-burning Stefano oven is the primary focus for diners. When customers enter the store, they are greeted by a server. If the customer is hearing, the server will ask them if they have the reservation. A "Reservation" sign on the welcome podium is available for hearing customers to point to. If they have a reservation, the server will escort them to their table. Once they are seated, a server comes to the table to take their order. If the guests are deaf, the server uses American Sign Language to ask, "Ready to order drinks?" Food orders are made in the same manner. Hearing customers order by signing in American Sign Language, pointing to the menu or writing their order on a sheet of paper.

"We know that everyone has that universal love of food," Melody said. "So, that’s what we’re offering at Mozzeria."

"Sometimes a customer will come in, and you’ll see the puzzled look on their face," said Amanda, a Mozzeria staff member. "But once they get in here and start communicating with us, they see it’s not that big of a challenge. It warms my heart to see that connection can be made; that hearing people are not intimidated to communicate with me."

Human communication is not just words.

From food to film

The Steins are now able to share their story with the world thanks to a new project created by Deluxe Corporation’s Small Business Revolution, a national campaign spotlighting the country's "most compelling small businesses."

"To celebrate our 100th anniversary, Deluxe Corporation decided to turn the spotlight away from ourselves and onto small businesses across the country," said Amanda Brinkman, Deluxe’s chief brand and communications officer.

The team from Deluxe was impressed with what they saw at Mozzeria and developed a 90-minute video about the all-deaf pizzeria.

"Once our team had a chance to meet the Steins and find out how they are running their business, we knew we had to include them in one of our mini-documentaries," Brinkman said. "What makes the Steins so great is that their story isn’t about the fact that they are deaf or they hire an all-deaf staff. That is one element in their story, but they know that if their food wasn’t outstanding, they wouldn’t be in business. They just love what they do and that is what drew us to them."