In 1960, when King Baudouin I of Belgium and Spanish aristocrat Fabiola de Mora y Aragon said “I do”, the bride wore a tiara crafted by the Carrera workshop (later becoming Carrera y Carrera).
In the early 80s, precious pieces by the Spanish jeweller were exhibited in momentous museums, namely Japan's Yamanashi Museum, the White House Museum in Washington, the Hadley Museum in Kentucky and the Armory Museum in the Kremlin. Today, the Spanish gems are worn by Hollywood A-listers like Jennifer Lopez, Madonna, Katy Perry, Demi Moore, Lady Gaga and Olivia Palermo.
The history of Carrera y Carrera began in 1885 when Saturio Esteban Carrera founded a small jewellery workshop on Madrilenian Street in Madrid. The goldsmith tradition and family business passed down to Manuel Carrera in 1965. A person of great artistic vision, he masterly merged art, sculpture and jewels together in carving the signature style of the Spanish luxury brand.
Now the 130-year-old house has expanded in more than 40 countries including Thailand with its first Bangkok store recently opened in Gaysorn. Each of its statement pieces bears the hallmark of unparalleled craftsmanship and inimitable design.
CEO Svetlana Kupriyanova tells us about the painstaking goldsmith craft and state-of-the-art creative process
With a 130-year heritage, how does Carrera y Carrera keep its DNA?
Carrera y Carrera CEO Svetlana Kupriyanova.
Creativity is at the top of our DNA. We’re recognised as one of the most creative brands in the world. We make jewellery like a small sculpture with careful motifs, small details, contrasting textures and finishes. Another important element of our company is tradition. We have many families whose grandfathers and grandsons work with us. From generation to generation, some of these families have worked for Carrera y Carrera for more than 80 years.
What makes Spanish gold craftsmanship distinct from others?
Our workers are artisans. They embody the DNA of the brand and are involved in the creativity. In contrast to mass production, our jewellery is made by meticulous handwork. Artisans in our workshop work their best and pay attention to small details.
How do you train Carrera y Carrera goldsmiths?
We grow them, I could say. We select very young people who want to be a true artisan. During their first five to seven years, they are trained to do basic stuff. When one of our artisans was asked by a journalist who visited our workshop how many hours did it take to finish a gold dragon bracelet. He answered that took him 16 hours and 25 years of his experience. When each piece is 100% handcrafted, they are creating a work of art. Our head of production once said that we put our heart into the pieces and it can speak to people who have the same heart. I see how much energy, passion and soul they put into each piece they make.
Tell us about the design process of each collection.
Everything starts from a plain white piece of paper. To me, this is a mystery. Our designers start to draw out different ideas and a committee will select them for a new collection. From ideas, sketches, technical drawings with small details and precise proportions, then the designs are developed in wax models like in sculpture because some pieces cannot be drawn on computer. After that, it goes to the technical department which involves complicated engineering and advanced technology to implement. We make a silver model for a sample before creating an actual piece. Our company launches a full collection very year with a totally new inspiration. I say it’s a mystery because I always wonder how the design team can sit in front of a mere piece of paper and come up with such amazing ideas.
Describe Carrera y Carrera fans.
They are people who buy jewellery because of creativity and personality — something that is more than gold. They are sophisticated women with strong personality and self-confidence. They appreciate the arts and European lifestyle. With a piece of jewellery, they want to be the centre of attention. They already own expensive pieces, but are now looking for something special and different.
How are trends important to your designs?
Our marketing team will sum up future trends. Right now we are working for the 2017 collection. Then the design team will capture some of those trends in creating each collection. For example, in the latest collection Universo, there are four different lines: Alegoria, Savia, Origen and Prisma. Each of them has a characterful theme, so they can cater to those with different tastes.
With Carrera y Carrera’s international presence, are there any preferences in each market?
Interestingly, it doesn’t depend on the market. It depends on the stage of development. For emerging markets, people focus on the stones and weight of gold. In the next step, it’s about brand. They only look for those special names. Then, eventually, they seek something unique. Jewellery is not a fundamental product. It’s something extra. Through a piece of jewellery, you express yourself, you want to show to others who you are. It’s a language. We’ve done a lot of experiments and found that some items that are best-sellers are best-sellers everywhere.
The Universo Collection’s Origen maxi necklace in white gold prasiolite with diamonds.
Design sketches of the Seda Imperial Collection.
