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Will transgenders get their due in Indian fashion?

With the world’s first transgender modelling agency about to open an office in LA, is India ready for it?

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Isis King, Andreja Pejić
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Bangkok-based firm Apple Model Management started catering to transgender models in Thailand in November 2014, on top of its existing cohort of non-transgender, or “cisgender”, male and female models. But its Los Angeles branch, which is due to kick-start sometime in the coming months, will be solely dedicated to transgender models.

Not long ago, American Apparel created quite a stir with its cutting-edge advertising, featuring transgender model Isis King in their print campaign.

The America’s Next Top Model alum, 26, appeared in an array of visually arresting shots which not only promoted the brand’s clothing, but celebrated gay pride. 

Early this year, model Andreja Pejic — became the first transgender model to be profiled in Vogue magazine. In the four-page story titled Has the Fashion Industry Reached a Transgender Turning Point?, Pejic shared the tale of being born in Bosnia-Herzegovina, immigrating to Australia, and the battle to come to terms with her identity.

Pejic has walked the ramp in both menswear and women’s clothes for leading design mavens like John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, and Jean Paul Gaultier. She marketed herself as a gender-neutral model until last year, when she came out as transgender and underwent gender confirmation surgery.

We spoke to fashion photographers, modelling agency reps, magazine editors and designers if they’ll ever see a transgender wave in the relatively nascent Indian fashion. 

Wendell Rodricks, Designer 
Androgyny has  been a trend in fashion and film since the 30s. As the world opens up to opportunities in every sphere, it is natural that transgenders are given their due. If India has given transgenders recognition, we should support them as well.

Varun Katoch, director Toabh modelling agency 
We tried to work with this boy who fell in the same bracket. He got editorial bookings  for fashion magazines because he was considered exotic, but no offers in terms of commercial campaigns. I don’t see a transgender market in the future. You’ll never see them in an ad for brands like Adidas or beauty brands.

Mansi Mehta, Head of bookings, Inega modelling agency 
The fashion world is evolving everyday and we are looking for something new and exciting to feed our palates. I definitely see  transgender models play a much bigger role in the market its just a matter of time before a big luxury brand takes this trend forward and suddenly it becomes a talking point in the fashion market. As for India, it’s yet a very nascent market and even though we are evolving I think it’s a long shot before we actually get comfortable with the idea of having transgender models work on fashion campaigns, shows and advertising jobs in our country.

Prasad Naik, Photographer 
It’ll work, but will need more time. The fashion scene is new in India and it has to reach a new level but I definitely see it happening in future. I am doing a story on transgenders — shooting them from everywhere. Fashion is always about exploring something new and androgyny is fashion’s new craze. It’s a new dimension to fashion. 

Asmita Aggarwal, Editor, L’Officiel, India 
I think transgenders, unlike the West, have not found the same respect and inclusion in society. Kinnars are still treated as a community rather than part of general population. In my interview with Abeena, a transgender who works the NGO Alliance, she has reiterated, “Gender transition is the most important aspect in the transgender community. Lot of us do require body changes. What we are born with and what we are right now are two different things. It’s a long
journey like a rebirth. I am now a proud member of the transgender community and have had a long trek from the confused boy I once was to what  I’m today. I now work for India HIV/AIDS Alliance in Delhi as program manager for Pehchan.”

Swapnil Shinde, designer 
Transgender models have an androgynous quality to them which works brilliantly with most designers and their ideas thus I do feel that this is something that will get bigger and bigger as time goes by should not be demarcated. Transgender agencies flourishing in India is huge possibility simply because our industry is booming very fast and is always open to anything new. If given a chance am sure these agencies will do wonders.

Ujjawal Dubey, designer 
Definitely, with the world opening its mind it seems transgender models will gain more importance in the industry. India is still not as open as we would have liked. Such trends in India will take their own time.  

Vikram Bawa, Photographer 
If you will remember I have won an international award for the best nude, which is actually an image of a transgender. As photographer and an artist, I am fascinated and interested in shooting transgender models. So it would be great to see more models come forth.

Swati Vijaivargie, Designer
With the increase in androgynous fashion, I do think transgender models will play a bigger and a more important role. This has also got to do with the changes in society which has become more free thinking with acceptance of newer ideas.
The world, today has become a smaller place where concepts and trends are shared on a global platform. India has started to accept newer ideas from the west. It has become a major contributor to the world of fashion. It is also open to accepting western concepts. Flourishing of transgender agencies will take time, but can be a success because of liberal mindsets of people.

Pearl Shah, Editor, Juice 
I think more than it being a fad style trend, it showcases that the fashion industry is embracing diversity. Lea T becoming a face for Redken or Hari Nef getting signed on by an agency that represents the biggest supermodels, IMG shows that as a global industry we are moving in the right direction and accepting and glorifying beauty regardless of sexuality. There is no longer a shock value attached to transgender models and this normalcy is exactly what a modern world needs. 

Vasundhara Mantri, accessory designer
Transgender models have become an overall dominating trend which is defining the course of lines and cuts in the long run.
According to me, the presence of transgender models in the Indian fashion press is fascinating, but many are still quick to judge when it comes to these radical changes. The fashion industry is doing its part in the movement towards equality. Employing transgender models and empowering their groups will help them feel more comfortable.There is a lot more work to be done, but this is a brilliant beginning.

Anuj Madaan, designer 
Transgender models have an androgynous quality to them which works brilliantly with most designers and their ideas thus I do feel that this is something that will get bigger and bigger as time goes by should not be demarcated. Transgender agencies flourishing in India is a huge possibility simply because our industry is booming very fast and is always open to 
anything new.

Rutu Neeva, designer
Androgyny is not something new in the fashion business, an industry which loves to push the boundaries of convention. In today’s scenario with gender equality spreading its wings all over, it is of no doubt that transgender models play a huge role in the world of fashion! Clothing is not reserved for a subset of people. With androgynous fashion and transgender modelling becoming popular all over the world, India is no exception! 

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