Dolce and Gabbana stage a fantasy-themed extravaganza over several days in their summer retreat. Sun Yuanqing reports in Portofino, Italy.

Haute couture shows are no longer just about fashion but also location.

They've recently been held in mansions and palaces, for instance.

But Italian designer duo Domenico Dolce and Stephano Gabbana are perhaps the first to host one in their own homes.

Having presented Dolce & Gabbana's couture line, Alta Moda, in Sicily, Venice, Capri and Milan, the pair opened their respective Portofino houses for an event from July 9-12.

The ancient fishing settlement on the Italian Riviera boasts a picturesque harbor, where Julius Caesar, Augustus and England's King Richard I rested. More contemporary visitors of note include Maria Callas and Cary Grant.

The town was neon-lit at night for the Alta Moda event.

Alta Moda won a slew of loyal clients since launching three years ago. About 300 of them attended the Portofino show. Others preferred to place orders remotely after the show to dodge the spotlight.

The brand's Chinese clients have surged over the past half year from nearly 10 to more than 30. Chinese account for about 40 percent of the brand's ready-to-wear global sales.

The Portofino show's guests attended it not only for fashion but also to experience Italy. Rather than a half-hour show, the Alta Moda event spanned days during which they could sunbathe and party.

"They want the best. They love the party. And I like to do it fun. The 100-percent Italian style of life is possible in a fantasy," Gabbana told China Daily and another newspaper, on his yacht in the Portofino harbor before the Alta Gioielleria high-end jewelry exhibition.

That was followed by the women's couture line, Alta Moda, the next evening and the men's line, Alta Sartoria, the third day.

In fact, the whole collection is inspired by the idea of fantasy and reality, and pushing the boundary between the two.

"We take inspiration from Shakespeare about what is real and what is fantasy," Gabbana says.

"The real is fantasy or the fantasy is real? We play with all these kinds of things."

The jewelry exhibition was held at Gabbana's home, perched on a mountain cliff near the harbor. It's a collection of selected pieces from the past seasons, with some created specially for the occasion. The gem- and pearl-encrusted gold works were meant to testify to the brand's ultra-feminine extravagance.

Guests were told to wear flat shoes the next evening, since they'd take the yacht and then hike for about 20 minutes to Dolce's newly furnished, mountainside home garden.

Some instead wore stilettos, dragging gowns they'd ordered in previous seasons.

The garden event was intended to hark to the fantasy-reality-fusion inspired by A Midsummer Night's Dream.

"Dante" signed invitation cards. A nymph strummed a harp. "Elves" swung through the air.

"Roman warriors" raised flowery gates for guests.

Watermelons dangled from the roots of trees.

As classic operas played in the background, a Roman warrior ushered in the first model, who wore a golden gown with a corseted top. It was followed by more empire-waist tulle dresses and gowns, all styled with the house's classic look of center-parted hair, cat eyes, crowns and chandeliers.

The brand's signature silhouettes like black sheath dresses and bodysuits were revisited with more glamour, highlighting bright colors, hand-stitched jewels and intricate embroidery.

Chinese and Russian influences were visible - a nod to the increasing clientele from these countries. Mink came with seductively see-through tulle or lace underneath.

The silhouettes of 1930s' Shanghai qipao were recreated with strapless tops and flounce skirts for an edgier and more sensual look. There were also references to Japanese aesthetics, as hand-painted brocade kimonos glided by.

After the 94-look show, guests enjoyed dinner on Dolce's home terrace overlooking Portofino, while the designers chatted and danced with the crowd. Dolce's little niece hopped around, and mimicked the dancing crowd.

Alta Sartoria, the men's couture show, was held the next evening at the century-old roof garden of Castello Brown, also known as the Castle of San Giorgio, which required another 20 minutes of hiking.

The first few looks emerged, and the crowd - some still panting from the hike - burst into applause.

Classic three-pieces and double-breasted suits - some of them heavily embroidered and hand-painted - were interspersed with bathrobe-inspired coats and kimonos. Alligator jackets and shorts employed understated colors.

There were also embellished robes with elements from Africa and the Middle East - other thriving markets of the brand.

An after-party followed the show. Clients tried pieces they were potentially interested in ordering in backstage fitting rooms.

The event was exclusively for clients and a few select media. Social media posts were banned during the show to ensure the collection's exclusivity.

Every piece was a one-off and was offered on a "first come, first serve" basis.

The prices remain a secret, but couture pieces generally start from hundreds of thousands of yuan and the upper limits are sky-high. After the order is placed, the Alta Moda team travels around the world to tailor for their customers. It can take up to three months to finish an embroidered gown.

All the materials are sourced in Italy and hand-sewn by Italian artisans.

While the older generation comprises the majority of the clientele, there are also people in their 30s and 40s, and some ask for dresses for their children.

"When we talk about Alta Moda, you might think of old women and men. But it has changed. We now have a lot of young customers," Gabbana says.

Tight dresses and pajamas are the best-selling categories, as well as embroidered and hand-painted pieces.

Chinese clients are especially fond of the brand's artistic jewelry, and embroidered dresses and suits, says a client manager, who asks not to be identified.

Working together for more than 30 years, Dolce and Gabbana have made the brand one of the luxury industry's most prominent names.

They've remained an independent company, fending off numerous buy offers and maintaining every right to decide what's best for the brand, which Gabbana describes as their child.

"Our child is not for sale," he says.

"Freedom is important. It's hard. But we pay the bills. We work a lot, and we take risks."

In recent years, they've made decisions that may not seem acceptable in the fashion business today, like closing the profitable sub-label D&G and launching the women's couture line, which Dolce has dreamed of for a long time as a couturier. The men's couture line debuted in January, following requests from women clients' spouses.

"When we stopped D&G, people were like: 'Ah, you are crazy'. For us, we don't see tomorrow. We see three years from now," Gabbana says.

While there are economic uncertainties like the ruble's plunge and China's slowdown, the couture clients - who are at the top of the financial pyramid - don't seem to be affected in their pursuit of glamour.

"We consider these factors, but we are always positive. Fashion is fashion. People want to be beautiful," Gabbana says.

"Fashion is a dream. Alta Moda is the top of our dream. And if you dream a lot, there is the possibility for it to come true."

Contact the writer at sunyuanqing@chinadaily.com.cn

The Portofino show is classic Dolce & Gabbana style, with Chinese, Russian and African influences.Photos Provided To China Daily

(China Daily USA 07/27/2015 page7)