During Ramzan nights, as chants of Tarabi, a prayer during the holy month, echo through the narrow alleys, the aroma of delectable food wafts through the streets of Nagpada — a place any foodie worth his salt will long to be not just for the eclectic tastes of the dishes but also for the legends and the melting pot of its culture.
The men and women who dined on its diverse menu were the who’s who of a syncretic, urban way of life. Writer Saadat Hasan Manto was a diehard fan of the kebabs served at the Sarvi restaurant.
Thespians and legendary foodies Dilip Kumar and Raj Kapoor too were regulars at Sarvi. Oscar-nominated actor Merle Oberon, an Anglo-Indian star of classics such as The Scarlet Pimpernel (1934) and The Dark Angel (1935), lived in the now impossibly congested lanes of the locality.
Nuggets like these were served at a Ramzan Food Walk led by writer and raconteur Rafique Baghdadi, who led a group of Mumbaikars through the lanes of Mohammed Ali Road. Wading through the noise and the dense traffic of Bhendi Bazaar is a nightmare, but during Ramzan, food aficionados from all over Mumbai throng this pocket in south-central Mumbai to dig into street food — kebabs, haleem and paya masala topped with sinful desserts such as malpua and mawa jalebi.
“Sarvi, which serves excellent paya soup with kebabs and roti, is a very old restaurant frequented by veteran actors and big food lovers like Dilip Kumar and Raj Kapoor. Writer Saadat Hasan Manto spent a lot of time there,” Mr. Baghdadi said.
Tailing Mr. Baghdadi, some 20 food lovers walked through the cramped streets. The next pit stop was outside the only watering hole in the area, Banjara.
“I have lived in Mumbai all my life but I have never been to this part of town. It is really vibrant here,” said Tunali, a photojournalist who was part of the group.
