Gaga over cocoa

Chocolate is in the midst of a reinvention revolution. From laddoo truffles to sea salt flavours and bacon bits it is all happening in the food for gods.

July 06, 2015 07:59 pm | Updated July 07, 2015 09:59 am IST

Those dark desries.

Those dark desries.

From ordinary rectangular bars to highly elaborate pieces of art, from being nothing but a treat for children to now being prescribed by doctors for its mood-elevation properties, the metamorphosis of chocolate is truly noteworthy. Chocolate came in many avatars — chocolate-based cereals, drinking chocolate, momos and even fried chocolate ice cream – and was once referred to as the poor man’s champagne! So, what lead to this transformations? Why is the world so bowled over by this cocoa treat? MetroPlus looks at the way the dark tempter is being reinvented again.

From ordinary rectangular bars to highly elaborate pieces of art, from being nothing but a treat for children to now being prescribed by shrinks for its mood elevation properties, the metamorphosis of chocolate is truly noteworthy.

Chocolate comes in many avatars — chocolate-based cereals, drinking chocolate, momos and even fried chocolate ice cream — and was once referred to as the poor man’s champagne! Why is the world so bowled over by this cocoa treat?

We look at the way the dark tempter is being reinvented again. According to Tanmoy Savardekar, owner and chef of The Winking Macaron in Bangalore, “Chocolate is slowly but surely becoming an integral part of our diet. From cuisine art, to special dietary menus, we are trying to explore the secrets of chocolate. Using cocoa butter, cocoa fats and components in cooking lend dishes a touch of chocolate without using chocolate itself.”

Vinesh Johny, owner and chef at Lavonne, also in Bangalore, says, “Using chocolate as a decorative medium to make showpieces is catching up. Seizing (curdling) chocolate to make soil, toasting white chocolate to achieve a nutty caramel flavour in chocolate, using a siphon gun to make chocolate sponges and foams, and incorporating molecular technique to make spheres and airs, are just some of the many ways pastry chefs are reinventing chocolate.”

For Sandesh Reddy of Sandy’s Chocolate Laboratory, Chennai, it is the satisfaction that comes after eating a bar of chocolate that matters. “From a plain Dairy Milk to artisanal chocolate, I am happy with anything. But diners are now more particular about the chocolate they eat and where it’s sourced from. It’s more of a lifestyle now than the indulgence it used to be; it’s all about the luxury.” He is sceptical about this discernment, however, explaining that it takes a highly-trained palate to actually taste the different notes in chocolate.

Nivedita Prasad, co-founder of Bangalore’s Chocolate Philosophy, says, “We have noticed that chocolate is not part of a dessert any more; it is the dessert in itself! People go for a bar of chocolate after a meal. Sea salt caramel and chilli have become mainstream flavours now. We have noticed how darker chocolates with citrusy tones and a combination of spices or herbs are on the rise, like zesty lemon with pepper and thyme chocolate.”

“Great chocolate is no different than great wine. Single origin chocolates, especially the darker variety (with higher cocoa content) reveal complex flavour notes. On our travels, we’ve also observed that meat and chocolate is now a thing, and people are slowly taking to bacon bits in chocolate,” adds Uma Raju, Nivedita’s partner.

Besides the gourmet scene, chocolate is also being held in high esteem for its restorative effects on one’s health and beauty, making it a favourite among make-up junkies too.

Naina Ruhail, a professional make-up artist and beauty blogger, says: “Cocoa/chocolate contains antioxidants that promote cell repair, prevent wrinkles, hydrate the skin, add softness to it, and make it appear healthy at all times. Thus, chocolate has now become an important part of our beauty routine too. Chocolate facials and spas are quite popular these days. In fact, natural homemade chocolate masks are effective when it comes to rejuvenating your skin. As far as make-up is concerned, some brands have products that are made of 100 per cent cocoa powder.” Chocolate has been a popular souvenir at weddings for some time now. “When the artisan chocolate trend kicked off, most couples gave away these dark treats in cute little pouches as return gifts. Now it is being utilised in more innovative ways. Chocolate fountains aren’t limited only to malls anymore, but have become a part of dessert tables too. With customisation becoming the order of the day, we even have personalised chocolate souvenirs inscribed with the couple’s names. The white wedding cake will always be popular, but we have seen an increasing number of people opting for exotic variations of chocolate cake, and pastry chefs are doling out monumental pieces that are attention-grabbers at the wedding,” observes Smita Purvika, a wedding planner. In spite of this, Sandesh feels that the simple joy of eating a chocolate has been lost.

“The question is, ‘Are you having fun while eating the chocolate?’ If the emphasis is on the darkness or origin, the answer is no. Earlier, we used to eat anything that came our way and enjoyed it. That’s how it should be, about the experience, and not the purity.”

(With inputs from Suzanna Myrtle Lazarus)

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