The Spring 2016 Men's Collections From Dior Homme, Hermès And Saint Laurent

Judging by the Paris collections, camouflage is here to stay. It started with Valentino followed by the abstracted version at Louis Vuitton . Then Kris Van Assche in his show for Dior Homme showed camouflage with a preppy-bent, as trousers paired with neat coats, as button down shirts worn under tailored navy suits, as a lining to a couple of parkas, and as alternating diamond shapes in his version of the argyle pattern. In fact he used camouflage liberally to create his vision of a modern man on the street. What else is on the sartorial arsenal of the modern man according to Dior Homme? Multi-zip trousers, suits worn with runners, and a couple of outerwear in ultra-luxurious crocodile leather. But it was in the color palette with its reds and oranges and yellows were Van Assche was really successful.

At Saint Laurent camouflage had a more grungy, flea market element. Hedi Slimane showed it layered and slouchy worn with the kind of reckless abandon and devil may care attitude as Hollywood creatives are wont to do. The collection itself was a homage to California by way of music and surf cultures with fringed jackets, stovepipe jeans, relaxed cardigans, leather jackets and generous helpings of plaid worn with an intentional unkempt style.

At Hermès, the clothes were relaxed and had ease and immediately called to mind men who grew up with privilege. Soft leather jackets worn with formal dress trousers and sandals, and knits with boat necklines paired with pants with wider legs. There was a deceptive simplicity to the clothes. True, the shapes may not be new but there was much to be said about the quality and the execution of the materials.

Click on the slideshow to see the collections.

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