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EL ESPECTADOR

Organic Food Finds Niche In Megalopolis Bogota

A Bogota-based NGO is helping some 30 farmers to sell organic produce directly to consumers. An oasis of clean food in the face of rising agrobusiness dominance.

Market stalls in Bogota
Market stalls in Bogota
Laura Dulce Romero
BOGOTA — There may be hope for organic farming in Colombia — a country that otherwise appears to be increasingly in the grip of big agrobusiness and vast food imports from the European Union.

Jairo Leal, a 58-year-old cultivator living outside the capital, is one of the faces of this newfound hope. "I have been a peasant all my life. I know how to farm," he says. And by that, he means "without pesticides".

When they tell him insects could harm his vegetables unless he sprays them with chemicals, he says: "so let them die."

He expands on his philosophy: "Crops are like life, at the end of the day: sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. But I know one thing: you can even win something from your losses." He notes that he uses spoiled crops to feed his animals, which then produce manure to allow him to replant his organic crops.

Leal has been an organic farmer for almost 12 years, cultivating 50 types of produces on five hectares he owns in the district of Fusagasugá. It may seem a lot for a small plot, but Leal uses "crop rotation" and effectively uses every inch of his land.

Leal and his wife, Judith Pineda, are now part of an initiative called La Canasta (The Basket), which helps some 30 families produce organic — pesticides and chemicals-free — food to sell in Bogota and the surrounding department of Cundinamarca.

La Canasta's approach is to help create a direct link between producers and customers, and more respectful relationships with the land.

Daniel Jiménez, a spokesman for the network, says it makes weekly deliveries of organic food on Wednesday to the homes of clients, who can register by phone or through its website. The baskets distributed to clients range in prices depending on the plots they come from (the most expensive is roughly 20 euros), and include "surprise" and seasonal products. The price you pay includes the cost of transport and training for producers.

More than money

Jairo Leal says there are two ways of keeping his plants free from pests or fungus, when he finds them. One is by hand and the other by spraying the juice of other plants onto them, including horse's tail, a natural pesticide.

Still, the reality is that a relatively small minority will farm this way in Colombia: "The mentality has changed," says Leal. "Now farmers just want money and to be sure their crops come out well and in abundance, with or without chemicals."

Sitting outside their small green cottage, he declares that the Leal-Pineda family doesn't want to become "millionaires," but to live a dignified life, respecting consumers who deserve to eat healthy food.

Judith tells me the couple used to farm with pesticides, but changed when they got tired of having to scrub everything thoroughly to cleanse it of chemicals. "It is also a question of honesty. There has to be a stricter control of what we eat. People eating fruits and salads in Bogota are often ingesting poison," she says.

The precarious conditions for farmers in Colombia are no secret, particularly after a massive rural strike in 2013 that brought to light their difficult conditions, not to mention the rock bottom prices wholesalers pay for their produce.

Adriana Chaparro, an expert in the rural economy and organic food market, says that there remains no government support for organic farming. We contacted the governor's offices in the Cundinamarca department, and were told by its agriculture department that there were "no specific projects in this area."

Another problem is the absence of a healthy eating culture among Colombian consumers, who think organic food is just pricey food. Jairo Leal accuses the government of focusing its resources on the expansion of big mining rather than organic farming. The earth, he says, is "the essence of this country, which is degraded by its own greed."

Still, despite broad support, the couple takes comfort in knowing they are doing the right thing, as La Canasta takes their produce from their basket straight into people's kitchens. This is a chain, they tell us, that is now unbreakable.

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Future

eDNA, The Cutting-Edge Tech That Could Help Identify Those Lost At Sea

Researchers are testing eDNA as a tool to locate lost soldiers' remains. Can the approach one day help solve crimes?

eDNA, The Cutting-Edge Tech That Could Help Identify Those Lost At Sea

Scientists from WHOI are testing a new technique that analyzes trace amounts of genetic material in seawater, called environmental DNA (eDNA)

Evan Kovacs and Calvin Mires WHOI/Linkedin
Rene Ebersole

A band played as the Pewabic eased away from the docks at Houghton, Michigan on Aug. 8, 1865. Ladies in fine silk dresses and men in black top hats waved from the upper deck to a crowd onshore wishing them bon voyage for a 10-day journey to Cleveland. Later that evening, first-class passengers enjoyed dinner, dancing, and champagne in the steamboat’s dining room, then retired to their stately sleeping quarters with water views. Other passengers slept in steerage on blankets and hay set among 250 half barrels of fish, 27 rolls of tanned leather, and nearly 500,000 pounds of copper and iron ore.

The next day, one of the worst and most mysterious maritime disasters in Lake Huron’s history would unfold.

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As the Pewabic passed its sister ship, the Meteor, possibly in an attempt to exchange newspapers or mail, the Pewabic suddenly veered and the Meteor struck the ship just below its wheelhouse, boring a gaping hole that quickly flooded. Within minutes, the Pewabic’s crew, passengers, cargo, and only existing manifest vanished into the deep, plunging 165 feet to the lake bottom, where the ship still rests today, preserved by freezing freshwater. “It’s the gravesite of at least 33 people who went down — some estimates vary widely and even pass the hundred mark,” said Philip Hartmeyer, a marine archaeologist for NOAA Ocean Exploration, whose research provides many of these details about the ship’s last voyage.

The Pewabic is among more than 200 vessels strewn across “shipwreck alley” in Lake Huron’s Thunder Bay. The region is currently serving as one of three worldwide maritime laboratories for a cutting-edge technique that could be a major advance for the field of forensic science. Their goal is to develop a unique protocol for finding missing people: the use of environmental DNA, an emerging tool that can detect genetic materials in a bottle of water or a scoop of seafloor sediment. The multimillion-dollar effort is being funded by the Defense POW/MIA Accounting Agency, or DPAA, an arm of the U.S. Department of Defense, with the hopes that the technology will help search for, locate, and repatriate U.S. Service members lost in past conflicts.

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