As we went through the garishly painted gopuram and entered the Mahamandapam, we were awestruck. The place is a veritable sculpture gallery. What grace and beauty!
Every pillar is adorned with figures of well proportioned, slender and absolutely charming images from Ramayana, legends of Lord Vishnu, Meenakshi Kalyanam, dancers, animals etc. Kumbakonam town is well known for its many temples and this north facing one is situated almost in the middle of the town.
King Raghunatha Nayak of Thanjavur (1600-1634 AD), who built this temple, was a great devotee of Rama. According to a legend he ordered a tank to be dug in Darasuram and the images of Lord Rama and Sita were found on that spot. Hence he asked his Minister Govinda Dikshitar to build three temples for Rama at Kumbakonam, Srirangam and Rama Sethu respectively.
At the Kumbakonam temple, in the main shrine, Rama and Sita are seated together on a pedestal, while Lakshmana is seen standing to his right with folded hands offering his obeisance, while Bharatha, standing next to him, holds a symbolic royal parasol; Satrugna on his left holds the Chamara and Anjaneya is seated on the left foreground with a veena.
But what holds one’s attention are the sculptures in the Mahamandapam. One can discern a combination of the artistic styles of Chola, Hoysala and Nayaks of Thanjavur in them.
The elegant and comparatively smaller figures in the Chola style exude calmness. Those from the Nayak style convey emotional expressions and some of them are quite animated too like the one with Garuda carrying Vishnu; some of these also depict groups of people like Rama with Parasurama and others, Ahalya emerging out of the stone, Rama with saints, etc. These are well-planned compositions. Decorations around the figures are also carved with minute details such as vines, flowers and plants. Also seen are Krishna with his consorts, Manmatha and Rathi. The sculpture of Venugopala, standing elegantly with his legs crossed is a beauty. Be it the figure in Tribanga such as Rama alone or with Sita; dancing girl; Rama standing alone in Dwibanga or the Rishi in Samabanga or the majestic awe-inspiring Lord Trivikrama, each one is well designed and executed within the available space.
Animal forms too attract attention and are often realistically carved. Just one example is enough to show the skill of the artist. In the middle part of a column within a square is the figure of a deer with a few arrows on its body; should one mention the absolutely natural manner in which the animal turns its body and head to look back or the terrified expression in its eyes?! The fear is almost palpable.
This temple is also well known for its Ramayana murals; but the area has been closed for renovation; one could only hope that its original glory will remain intact.
