Patagonia: Hiking, birding and art in this eclectic community
Here's one of my favorite pieces of Arizona trivia: The movie "Oklahoma!" was filmed here.
When Curly McLain sang about the "bright golden haze on the meadow" he did it in Arizona. Filmmakers couldn't find enough undeveloped land in the Sooner State so they chose the windswept grasslands of Santa Cruz County as a more suitable location.
That has to be a burr under the saddle of Oklahomans. I can't imagine going to see a big budget production called "Arizona!" that was filmed in a Delaware culvert full of painted Styrofoam boulders passing as the Grand Canyon.
Here's another cool thing: The beloved musical turns 60 this year, and you can see it on the big screen in the neighborhood where it was filmed. "Oklahoma!" will be shown at the Patagonia Movie House at the Tin Shed Theater on Saturday, May 2.
The movie house is the newest addition to Patagonia and, as advertised, it occupies a spacious tin shed behind the Creative Arts Association. Live performances are supplemented by monthly showings of classic movies, many with roots in the area. "The Outlaw Josie Wales," "A Star Is Born," "Hombre," "Pork Chop Hill," "The Big Country" and other movies have been filmed near here.
Nestled in a long, narrow valley between the Patagonia and Santa Rita mountains, the tree-lined hamlet of Patagonia is an arts community, a haven for birders and a hot spot for butterflies — perhaps the most charming triple threat imaginable. Historical buildings house shops, restaurants and inns that flank the big community park in the heart of downtown. The picturesque setting makes Patagonia a popular destination for road trippers.
While I was there a few weeks ago, a stream of shiny classic cars rumbled down the main drag. The Tucson Street Rod Association and the Sierra Vista Car Club make a run to the park every March for their Patagonia Picnic. The smell of burgers and hot dogs sizzling on the grill filled the air and visitors strolled by to snap photos of the vintage hot rods and muscle cars.
In the late 17th century, Spanish missionaries traveled from Mexico up the Santa Cruz River seeking to convert native people. This led to the formation of missions and, eventually, towns. Mines came and went; ranchers came and stayed, finding rich grass-carpeted rangelands canopied by oak and mesquite and fed by perennial streams.
Although nearby Sonoita developed into Arizona's first wine region, Patagonia sowed more eclectic oats and today offers a little something for everyone.
Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve
The Nature Conservancy's first project in Arizona was to protect a stretch of Sonoita Creek and its adjacent verdant floodplain on the edge of Patagonia.
More than 300 bird species migrate, nest and live in this beautiful forest of Fremont cottonwoods and Goodding willows. Thousands of visitors come each year to stroll the gentle trails among the cottonwoods that are some of the oldest (130 years) and tallest (100 feet) in the country.
Guided nature walks are held weekly. The greatest diversity of species can be spotted in late April, May, late August and September. $6, $3 for conservancy members, free for age 16 and younger.
Details: 520-394-2400, www.nature.org.
Tucson Audubon's Paton Center for Hummingbirds
Bordering the Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve is a birding hot spot that's uniquely Patagonia.
The Paton family began putting out feeders in the 1970s and hummingbirds swarmed the property. The family welcomed strangers who came to enjoy the colorful show. After Marion Paton died in 2009, neighbors and friends kept the feeders stocked until last year, when the Tucson Audubon Society took over.
There are chairs, a shade awning and a big board listing recent sightings. Folks from all over the world gather in this small backyard, one of the most reliable places to spot a violet-crowned hummingbird. There is no fee but donations are appreciated. If the gate is open, come on in.
Details: 477 Pennsylvania Ave. www.tucsonaudubon.org/work/patons.html.
Patagonia Lake State Park
Patagonia Lake sits just a few miles south of town. From fall through spring, the campground is filled with birders. Avian boat tours prowl the lake several times a day. Ranger-led bird walks are regular events. Visitors carry binoculars and cameras with lenses the size of rocket launchers as they tiptoe through the cottonwoods and willows along the shoreline.
Around mid-April, the birders move on and the recreationists arrive in droves — boaters, swimmers, skiers and water lovers of all sorts. Tucked amid rolling hills, the 265-acre lake is a shimmering oasis. The park also has a swimming beach, picnic areas and fishing.
Lakeside Market offers boat rentals, fishing licenses, bait, ice and more. The campground sits at water's edge. Admission is $15 per vehicle on weekends, $10 on weekdays. Campground reservations can be made online.
Details: 520-287-6965, azstateparks.com/Parks/PALA.
Sonoita Creek State Natural Area
Adjacent to Patagonia Lake State Park, the sprawling natural area offers an entirely different experience. No matter what's going on at the lake, plenty of solitude can be found amid a smorgasbord of habitats.
Administered by the state-park system, the natural area protects the Sonoita Creek and Coal Mine Spring watersheds. More than 20 miles of trails wind from high-desert grasslands through lush streamside forests. The Overlook Trail scrambles 500 feet up an ocotillo-dotted slope to a shaded bench where you can savor expansive views of Patagonia Lake. It's 1.4 miles round trip.
If you have time to hike just one trail, the Sonoita Creek-Blackhawk Canyon Loop (2.75 miles) delivers the most bang for your buck. A mostly easy hike with a few moderate patches, it cuts across beautiful hills, skirts a steep-walled gorge, drops down to the shady creek channel and brings you to the edge of the lapping lake. Keep an eye peeled for birds and an ear cocked for the quiet that defines this pristine place.
A limited number of hikers are allowed in the natural area at any time. There are no facilities and the visitor center is closes for summer on April 15, but permits, maps and information can be obtained at the entry station to Patagonia Lake State Park.
Details: 520-287-2791, azstateparks.com/parks/socr/attractions.html.
Find the reporter at www.rogernaylor.com.
Patagonia
Getting there: From central Phoenix, take Interstate 10 east past Tucson to State Route 83. Drive south 24 miles, then turn west on Arizona 82 at Sonoita. Continue 12 miles to Patagonia.
"Oklahoma!": There will be two screenings of the classic movie on Saturday, May 2, at the Tin Shed Theater, 304 Naugle Ave. Admission to the 3 p.m. show is $5. A 7 p.m. screening includes dinner and a discussion and costs $30. Proceeds benefit the Patagonia Movie House equipment fund. Tickets can be ordered by calling the Patagonia Creative Arts Association, 520-394-9369.
Details: Patagonia Regional Visitor Center, 299 McKeown Ave. 520-345-4172, www.patagoniaaz.com.