VIDEO: Gozo - God's own escape off the coast of Malta

"Miracles happen here..."

Jason Kennedy

"I am positive that God lives on this island. Truly, miracles happen here..."

So says our smiling guide, not long after we set foot on the Maltese island of Gozo.

I can see why he thinks so. We're not long on the Mediterranean island, but already its natural beauty is shining through. Not to mention the fact there are some 46 churches dotted across the land.

I'm sure God would feel right at home.

For me, however, the focus would be coastal walks and cross-island cycling... and there's no shortage of either on Gozo.

Malta's neighbouring island is home to spectacular coastal scenery. From stunning cliffs to clear waters to the many historic watch towers that line the coast, this is an ideal location for those who are not afraid of a bit of exercise. Coastal walking routes line the island, suitable for all abilities, and no two look the same.

One gorgeous route takes you from Xlendi Bay over the Layercake Cliffs, revealing views of beautiful blue waters and several of the other islands in the Maltese archipelago. On this route, chances are you’ll bump into some friendly locals or the occasional shepherd, herding their flock around the green yet rugged pastures.

Depending on how fast you are, the 10km route takes around three hours.

For cycling rookies like me, Gozo may not initially appear the ideal place to get to grips with transport on two wheels (when it comes to those hills, the decline can be just as scary as the incline).

However, it doesn't take long to suss out the lay of the land. By the time you zip through the mix of Arabic and Mediterranean architecture, gaze out on the turquoise waters and whizz past the plentiful vineyards, you hardly even notice the occasional hill - at least, most of the time.

An absolute must-see in Gozo are its Ġgantija (pronounced Jig-ant-ee-ya) temples, which are the world's oldest free-standing structures, as well as the world's oldest religious structures.

According to local Gozitan folklore, a giantess who ate nothing but broad beans and honey had a child with a local man. With the child hanging from her shoulder, she built these temples and used them as places of worship. The temples are now a designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As my tour guide suggested, it doesn’t take long to figure out that religion plays a major role on Gozo. There are churches everywhere.

In fact, it’s estimated that there is one church for every 1,000 people on the island... and they're full every Sunday too! Hardly surprising given that 97pc of the population is Catholic, I guess.

One church stands out. Ta Pinu, or the miracle church, is where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a peasant girl. The area is now the site of a holy sanctuary where people from around the world send letters to the Madonna thanking her for their own miracles.

Letters, casts, baby clothes and even human hair line the walls of some parts of the church. It's almost eerie.

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Gozo is small - considerably smaller than Malta. Over the course of my visit, however, I came to appreciate just how much warmth and character it packs in.

And that's not even starting on the food - nor the pampering and relaxation to hand at hotels like the five-star Ta Cenc and Kempinski San Lawrenz.

If God does live on Gozo, I wouldn't be surprised.

Jason travelled to Gozo with Headwater. Headwater offers cycling and walking holidays in Gozo. For more information, click here.

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