In the heart of Indore, on a six-acre plot preserved like a jungle, lives Kavita Sanghi. Seated amidst hundreds of indigenous trees and flowers, with over 70 varieties of birds, and numerous pet dogs, Kavita draws from Nature for her clothing label, Khoj. Best known for its trademark, forest-inspired block prints on classic maheshwaris, Khoj arrives at Amethyst, in the city, with its latest line next week.
Khoj was born nearly 30 years ago, when Kavita desired to help weavers in Maheshwar sell their products better. Once the exclusive wealth of the royal family of Indore, the maheshwari came to the commoner when Prince Richard Holkar, son of the last Maharaja of Indore, set up the Rehwa Society in the 70s with a few hundred weavers to revive the textile tradition, as well as open it up for those beyond royalty. “From the original nine-yard sari, it evolved into the six-yards more commonly worn and is today found in every form, from cut fabric, to salwars and dupattas, however you like to wear it,” says Kavita. “When we began Khoj, maheshwaris were all the rage of the day!” Kavita’s fabrics are sourced mostly from Raigarh and Maheshwar, and block-printed with natural pigments in Indore. maheshwaris own a natural shine because the warp is cotton and the weft is silk, explains Kavita, and hence, they are similar in texture to the Chanderi, yet different in their unique way. “They hardly require any embellishment; for three decades now, we’ve just block printed them. We aren’t about the fashion of the day. We go right back to the basics, with no bling and no sequins, just simple, timeless textiles with traditional, aesthetic work.” From solo leaf prints, to tall trees, birds, animals and entire forests, all of Nature finds itself block-printed on Kavita’s Maheshwaris. Her colour palette varies from solid oranges, reds, blues and greens to unusual shades created by a mix and match of weaves. “For instance, to an orange weft, I could add a pink or blue weave, which gives the saree an uncommon colour,” she says. While it’s the bright hues that draw youngsters, the elders tend toward her beiges, whites, greys and indigos, says Kavita. “You could wear this line to weddings, parties or even to office, depending on how you style it. Pair it with wood jewellery, diamonds or pearls, but always, keep it classy.” Khoj will be showcased at Amethyst from March 26 to April 2, ranging from Rs. 4,500 to Rs. 12,000.
