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Would you try fermented skin care products?

They claim to help with dry skin, pigmentation marks and act as an anti-ageing tool

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The latest trend in skin care, fermented beauty products have been creating a buzz in the industry. The concept which originated in Korea basically involves fermentation of natural ingredients like seaweed, ginseng, black tea, and other flowers and herbs. This process is said to improve the potency of these key ingredients and they make them easily absorbed in the skin. It's also said to improve skin tone, reduce acne scars and protect against wrinkles and lines.

Natural and organic
Dr Apratim Goel, cosmetic dermatologist and laser surgeon, Cutis Skin Studio, explains that
the cosmetic industry is always looking for innovations and now they have dug out an ancient but very scientific concept of fermentation. "In fermentation, the yeast breaks down the active ingredients into smaller particles where they become more effective and are absorbed quickly. These products are natural and organic and are rich in natural minerals, antioxidants, vitamins and have great moisturising properties. The products can be incorporated in ones daily skin regime such as in cleansers, moisturisers, toners, serums and creams. When fermented these ingredients tend to release many amino acids like glycine which help the skin re-texturize and glow. Infact, some products also claim to be anti carcinogenic,"she says, adding, "For Indian skins, black tea masks can be used as a great firming and anti-ageing treatment. Ginkgo biloba has moisturising properties which work great for our weather and skin types. It contains vitamin A and C which works in skin lightening and acne management."

Use with care
Dr Shefali Trasi Nerurkar, MD Skin, Dr Trasi's Clinic & La Piel, says the fermentation process makes ingredients more potent. "It also increases the level of amino acids and antioxidants in the product making them more efficacious. For Indian skin, creams containing AHAs and antioxidants are best to remove tans and acne scars. However, people who are allergic to yeast and fermented food products as well as those with sensitive skin should avoid such products."

Look for key ingredients
Fermented skin care products include ingredients such as bamboo sap extract, red clover flower.
hibiscus, snow lotus and fruit water says Dr Malavika Kohli, dermatologist. "They are fermented for one to three years under suitable conditions and specific temperatures to produce active ingredients that hydrate and brighten the skin. Natural ingredients like yeast extract, ginseng algae, black and herbal tea, fruit extracts after fermentation are used for anti-ageing, cell renewal and improving skin tone. Fermentation increases the effectiveness and enhances their benefits. Bio-fermentation increases the nutrient value of the ingredient and help penetrate deeper layers of skin and prevent oxidation. Look for products with marine extracts, fruit acids, sugar acids and seaweed algae for skin care," she adds.

Fermentation works well
Dr Swati Srivastava, dermatologist, Sketch Clinic, says just like wine has much more antioxidant properties as compared to grapes because it is fermented, similarly these products work. "The process removes the bad bacteria and with the help of good bacteria like lactobacillus it can be very effective without a need for any chemical preservatives for the cream. Fermentation works at the molecular level and gives the cream higher nutrients."

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