A Good Mess

The menu is playful and set in an accounting register. Divided into chintu (quirky bar grub), chota (small plates) and bada (large plates), the dishes call out for attention. For instance, the chef’s version of tacos is Goan pulled pork vindaloo (Rs 250) served on theplas. Opt for the well-spiced, juicy pork served with fryums.

While we were placing our order, a server wearing suspenders, carrying a tray of chintus, approached us. We picked the crispy lotus stem and desi devilled eggs. Priced at Rs 40 for veg and Rs 60 for non-veg, these small bites can get quite addictive.
Our cocktails came in early and were stiff. For Old Monk lovers, The Dark Monsoon (Rs 325) is the perfect partner-in-crime.

However, our pick on any night would be the light but delicious Jhoom Jaam (Rs 425) — pandan infused vodka mixed with star-fruit juice, white chocolate syrup and orange bitters. We paired the drink with papdi chat-like arbi tuk (Rs 150), where deep-fried chunks are layered with chilli-spiced curd, tamarind chutney and a rat-tail radish salad on the side.

The restaurant was buzzing by this time and the music was cranked up a few decibels. From the badas (large plates), we picked tava beef kheema kothu roti (Rs 550) and banana leaf wrapped roasted fish. The fish was the catch of the day — buttery soft red snapper. We gave it a ‘bada’ thumbs up.

Like the rest of the menu, the desserts too evoke a sense of known with a dash of the unknown. The masala chai popsicles (Rs 200) and the ice cream sandwich (Rs 200) remind one of post-school indulgences. Creamy dark chocolate and tulsi ice cream is tightly squeezed between two Bonbon biscuits and a Jim-Jam like cookie comes with chocolate ginger ice-cream.

If The Bombay Canteen successfully continues its experiments with regional cuisine, it could emerge as an oasis in the city’s otherwise dull food scene.

Meal for two: Rs 2000 (without alcohol)
meenakshi.iyer@expressindia.com