restaurant review

Hinokizaka at Ritz-Carlton Tokyo takes Japanese cuisine to great heights

4 Comments
By Maki Yasuda

If you're seeking a lavish Japanese dining experience in a five-star setting, look no further than Hinokizaka, the signature Japanese dining venue of the Ritz Carlton Tokyo. This sky-high restaurant on the 45th floor of Tokyo Midtown offers four different genres of Japanese cuisine - kaiseki, tempura, sushi, and teppanyaki – and there are unique dining areas for each as well as an assortment of private and semi-private rooms. With impeccable cuisine and various levels of privacy offered by the different seating, it’s a great place for all kinds of need-to-impress occasions, from clients in town to romantic dates.

I played a bit of “nomad diner” on my visit, getting a taste of everything in different areas of the restaurant, but of course when you go, you should try to settle for one of the cuisines. The staff did tell me though, that people sometimes make requests for items on the menu from different parts of the restaurant, which they’re happy to handle. So you can have, say, that luscious piece of wagyu that you caught a glimpse of on your way to the sushi counter if it strikes your fancy.

The tempura room is an intimate space with a wide counter seating 10, designed with the natural theme of “wood.” I’d never given much thought to sparkling sake before, but the sparkling Hakkaisan I had here made me think there really are some occasions when it makes the perfect aperitif. With it came a beautifully prepared snow crab starter, one of the last of these precious crustaceans for this season, the chef behind the counter informed me.

How extravagant it is to have tempura freshly fried in front of you so that you can pop it into your mouth seconds after it is whisked out of the hot oil. The crispy prawn, eaten whole, was cracklingly good, and the scallop, kept a little raw at the center, was sweet and succulent. The maitake mushroom tempura was a big hot ball of earthy scrumptiousness, light and crunchy on the outside with a juicy meaty inside. Doused with a hefty mound of grated radish and broth, it was one of the best bites of the evening. The white wine paired with the tempura was Japanese – Gris de Koshu – that I’m usually not too excited about, but I found myself agreeing that its softness on the palate and mild bouquet does match and bring out the delicate flavor of the food.

Although I had the sushi at the tempura counter (they brought over a plate of nigiri), I took a peek at the sushi room in the beginning and it’s gorgeous. It’s on the window side of the restaurant so that the counter is set against a dramatic backdrop of the city view. The theme of the interior design is “glass,” and sparkly “edo kiriko” (cut glass) lighting fixtures hang above the counter. The sushi is very elegant, with dainty portions of rice and highly refined pieces of the most flavorful fish. The sake served with the nigiri was “Senshin” (the characters mean “cleanse the soul”), the top brand of the maker that also produces the renowned Kubota. The crystal clear taste of this extremely elegant sake is striking, so sake and sushi lovers, take note if you haven’t had it before.

The teppanyaki room has the theme of “metal,” and there’s an energy here that contrasts the other areas. Metal tile decorations cover the walls, and the gigantic griddle tops gleam in front of the wide counter seating fourteen. The chefs’ sharp, dynamic movements preparing the food on the hot griddle right in front of you is great entertainment, and apparently an appetite enhancer. I actually polished off the Kobe beef fillet as well as sirloin, which were absolutely superb, served with beautiful wedges of lotus root and other veggies, and a mound of crispy fried garlic. It was so good that I declared on the spot that the next time I go to Hinokizaka, this is where I’ll be heading to.

The kaiseki area is near the entrance so you’d actually pass it when getting to the other areas. I made my way back there for dessert, settling at one of the couple’s seats by the windows, where you’re sitting directly facing the sky-high city view. I personally quite like sitting side by side when dining as a duo, whether it be with family, friend or date, and think these couple seats would be fun for lunch too (that is if neither you nor your companion are afraid of heights). The “mont blanc” style “daifuku” that I chose was a clever twist on the traditional Japanese confection, a sweet and indulgent way to end an already rather excessive night for me.

Each area of the restaurant has course menus that start from 15,000 yen, which for the quality of food and the venue I’d say is pretty good value. On the other hand, if you want to splurge on some lavish dining for a group, there’s the choice of a private chef’s table with a counter seating up to 10, where your party will have their very own chef for the night. Last but not least, there’s a 200-year-old tea room, Kokushouan (it had been taken apart at its original location and transplanted into the Ritz Carlton) that would make an awesome trump card to keep up your sleeve for times when you need something extra special, like an important business lunch with fussy VIPs. Shokado bento box lunch in Kokushouan would be an exquisitely surreal and sure way to impress even the most discerning of them.

Hinokizaka The Ritz Carlton Tokyo 45th Floor Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1, Akasaka, Minato-ku

Seating: 92 (Kaiseki 32, Sushi 12, Tempura 10, Teppanyaki 14; private dining 8, 6 & 10)

Reservations & Inquiries Phone: +81-3-6434-8711

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4 Comments
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I've been there only once and the food was great. I wish I could afford to go more often.

1 ( +1 / -0 )

Hinokizaka at Ritz-Carlton Tokyo takes Japanese cuisine to great heights

Are they talking about the price in this headline?

0 ( +1 / -1 )

"If you’re seeking a lavish Japanese dining experience in a five-star setting"

I'm not.

"Each area of the restaurant has course menus that start from 15,000 yen"

That's why. Oh, sure I could spend over 15,000 yen for a meal, but I hate wasting so much money.

I can eat just as good, taste and volume-wise, for less than one-third that at any number of other places.

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It's not just taste and volume though. It's atmosphere and location.

Sounds like a place worth visiting. I think I'll take the wife there next time the kids are at her parents.

-1 ( +0 / -1 )

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