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Bastion of robust beauty

SYMBOL OF POWER
Last Updated 19 January 2015, 16:59 IST

Basavakalyana, previously known as ‘Kalyana’, is in Bidar district. It came to be known as ‘Basavakalyana’ after the advent of Viswaguru Basavanna, the Veerashaiva saint and social reformer of 12th century. The town also has a historic fort that has seen many a dynasty rise and fall in its vicinity. Yet, the fort itself has not gained much popularity like its counterparts elsewhere in the state.

Going a little deeper into its history would reveal how significant this fortress was in medieval times, particularly between 10th and 12th centuries when the Western Chalukyas were at the helm.

Prior to 10th century, the Rashtrakutas ruled well, in the Deccan, for nearly two hundred years with many feudatory rulers in the region. In 973 AD, one of their feudatories in charge of Vijayapura, Tailapa II, rose against his overlords and emerged victorious and claimed Manyakheta, the present Malkhed of Kalaburagi district, as his capital. And it was during his time that the towering fort at Basavakalyana was built.

Power play
The victory of Tailapa was what marked the beginning of an outstanding dynasty, the Western Chalukyas. They gained power fast, and flourished for the next two centuries, creating an empire of their own in nearly half of India, including Deccan and Central India.

Among the Chalukyan rulers, Someshwara I was the one who shifted the royal capital from Manyakheta to Kalyana, after which, the dynasty got another name: ‘Kalyana Chalukyas’. The kingdom also thrived under subsequent kings like Vikramaditya VI, who is hailed as the most successful, and his fifty-year rule was known as the ‘Chalukya Vikrama Era’.

All along, the Basavakalyana Fort had stood the test of times and served as the regal headquarters of the Chalukyas. Even as the dynasty began to decline in the later part of 12th century, the fort was the focal point for various other dynasties that subsequently came to power, each of them ruling and refurbishing the fort time and again.

Matter of possession
According to historic records, one particular incident has been well-related to the importance of the fort: King Rama Raya (1484-1565 AD) of Vijayanagar, who had more or less held a sway over the fort and wanted a symbolic control, frequently aligned with Sultanates and rulers to overthrow the then existing ruler and hand over the fortress to his favoured ruler.

Thus, when he defeated the Sultanate of Ahmadnagar to give possession to Adil Shah of Vijayapura, he had set three conditions to the losing sultan - to meet him and accept a paan (betel leaf), to execute his general and to hand over the keys of Kalyana Fort personally. The possession of the formidable fort has, at all times, been of strategic importance. Today, the fort, though well-built, is deteriorating over time, as we can
observe, walking through its corridors.

Built for safety
The fort itself has been built in a depression amidst thick greenery which makes it camouflaged and unobtrusive. The security and defensive strategy has been given prime importance in its construction with an all-round deep moat surrounding the fort.
There are three concentric fort walls within which the citadel is safely built on a higher elevation. The presence of barbicans and guard rooms at the entrances suggest  it was difficult for the invaders to enter the fort.

It had seven gates, out of which three are in place now. The first gate has a simple arch with pillars and balconies reached by short flights of steps. The courtyard that follows has a pond, dried up now, and a row of  guard rooms.

The path which goes left from here, through another entrance, is lined with rows of stone cannon balls, an important warfare item in those days. There were openings, above the entrance arches, from where boiling oil would be poured over the intruders. It was another defence strategy adopted at the fort.

The fort is lined with a series of bastions with cannons atop them. Two of them are particularly worth viewing: Navgaz Thopu, a very long cannon and Khadak Bijli Thopu, a sturdy one with a swivel. There are also secret escape routes.

Past grandeur
As we walked through and climbed a few steps  we came to the wide courtyard  with the high rise citadel in the centre. The broken sculptures and ruined remnants lay scattered. The one artefact that drew  my attention was the huge grinding stone. The entrance led to the palace, Rajamahal. Though ruined, the arches are intact. The pattern of urns and vases on the wall looks artistic.

Further ahead we came to a temple with a square pond in the front. Though the shrine was empty the intricately carved  columns on the door suggested a fine
image  may have decorated the sanctum. There is also a cellar that once housed a
gymnasium.

To the west the path led to the Queen’s palace, Ranimahal. We passed through Haider Mahal, another enclosure, to Rangeen Mahal. It is an open air courtyard now with  four pillars  that once supported a roof. The fine artwork on the walls is still intact. A central pond, a defunct fountain and a stone bench suggest that this must have been the place for the royalty’s leisure.

Another enclosure that followed is the Durbar Hall, where the king presided the meetings. It was  also a  stage  for dance  performances. The decorative stone slabs and the remains of ornate pillars  suggest the fine taste of the royalty that once lived here.
 

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(Published 19 January 2015, 16:59 IST)

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