My drive into the magnificent Napa Valley was not marred by the torrential rainstorm surrounding us. My car passed miles of vineyards with imposing entrances and spectacular estates in the distance. The colors of the leaves were just changing into rustic yellows and browns. The rain was no enemy to this lush environment.
As soon as I arrived at the top of a long winding road to the famed Calistoga Ranch, an Auberge Resort, the clouds seemed to part as I was met by a staff of eager hotel employees ready to get me settled into my stunning two bedroom lodge nestled into the woods.
Located in a private canyon on 157 acres, Calistoga Ranch is a resort consisting of 50 guest lodges and 22 owner lodges. The property offers overnight accommodations, spa services, Lake Lommel, and the private Lakehouse Restaurant and lounge. The resorts contemporary architecture is inspired by its natural surroundings, and created to fit the landscape, with a focus on an indoor-outdoor lifestyle. In keeping with the rich heritage of Napa Valley, Calistoga Ranch features an on-site vineyard and mountain wine cave, where owners and guests can share in the process of winemaking and immerse themselves in the wine culture.
Northern California has its share of upscale hotels, but this exclusive property—situated deeply among acres of oak trees and springs—is the epitome of luxury for West Coast nature lovers. Freestanding guest lodges with polished cedar and floor-to-ceiling glass, offer uninterrupted views of the trees and sky, both from their opulent, plush interiors.
Calistoga Ranch commands some of the highest overnight rates in California with rates rivaling its sister resort, Auberge du Soleil off of Silverado Trail. My lodge was $2,570 a night and justifiably so, this is pure luxury living.
My 2,400 square-foot Meadow Lodge was very spacious with each room of the lodge designed as separate pods adding to the maximum privacy. Two full bedroom suites, each with private bath, expansive living room with fireplace, full kitchen, wet-bar and a dining area, outdoor living area with fireplace and a private outdoor shower garden and a hot tub on the deck . Oh and did I mention guests have access to their own luxury Mercedes Benz to explore the region?
Calistoga’s General Manager Coni Thornburg and her team put together very special custom itineraries for their VIP guests, and I was treated to a truly memorable weekend not available to the general public.
My first visit was to the Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard for a private tour and tasting with the beautiful and gregarious owner Mary Constant. The vineyard is for sure the highest, located above 2121 feet, and the oldest vineyard in the Napa Valley. Located at the top of the Diamond Mountain District, the winery is one of the best places in the world to grow Bordeaux varietals.
Constant Diamond Mountain sits in a phenomenal location all the way at the top of Diamond Mountain road with the Napa/Sonoma county line running through the upper part of this property. A visit here is by appointment only and is for the very serious wine enthusiasts and collectors who know their wine and love hillside produced wines.
After driving the narrow, windy road, VIPS are given a tour in an antique Pinzgauer 4wd military green vehicle. A driving tour is conducted throughout the vineyards, stopping at the beautifully renovated 1890 farmhouse and finally at the tasting room located above the main vineyards and overlooking the main estate's swimming pool.
After the driving tour we entered a fortress style courtyard complete with large quarried stone walls. The main entrance to the home is one of the most unusual I have ever seen, as you walk through a wine cave surrounded by barrels illuminated by chandeliers. The popular and charismatic Freddy and his wife of 32 years, Mary, founded Napa Valley’s renowned vineyard in 1993, building it into a critically acclaimed producer of estate grown and bottled cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and syrah. I enjoyed a long emotional chat with Mary as she told me about the recent passing of her husband Freddy who had been by her side creating the legendary winery, including building the spectacular Howard Bracken designed estate that was even featured in Architectural Digest. It was hard for us to part after our time together and Mary ended up driving us back to the resort.
That evening we were lucky to dine at the popular Archetype restaurant in nearby St. Helena. This is the perfect California wine country restaurant designed by owner and renowned architect Howard Backen and managed by Auberge Resorts Collection. Chef Ryder Zetts’ menu takes an original and unique approach to classic dishes and we were stuffed after one of the best extensive meals I have ever had in the area.
Following our decadent five course meal, our evening was made even more special when the Calistoga Ranch arranged for a private after hours couples spa experience. The stunning Bathhouse spa was closed just for us as we began with a 60-minute massage side-by-side in the couples suite. We enjoyed complete privacy with the spa all to ourselves while sipping champagne and soaking in the hot pools under the drizzling rain. With a roaring fire, custom desserts and candles illuminating the area, this was the perfect end to an amazing day.
The next day I was treated to a private town car courtesy of Napa Valley Tours & Transportation. The black car is a necessity when you are touring the vineyards and winetasting and this company is the absolute best in providing the ultimate in service and protection. First up was the famed Inglenook Winery, where we were treated to a private tasting in the Centennial Cellar with the charming and very French Managing Director Philippe Bascaules. Personally chosen by Francis Ford Coppola, he came to Napa from Bordeaux in 2011. He had spent the past 21 years making wines at Chateau Margaux.
Philippe spoke at length about his excitement of working at Inglenook while we tasted several of their fine wines; 2011 Rubicon, 2011 Cask Cabernet Sauvignon and 2012 Edizione Pennino Zinfandel. I asked what his favorite wines were “In my career, I’ve had the opportunity to taste some spectacular wines” he said, “the wines that are the most memorable are linked to emotions. But if I have to choose three: Margaux 1900, Margaux 1929 and Lafite 1959”. “When you taste wines like Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon 1941 or the 1951 Pinot Noir, it is obvious that this is a great terroir. I’m still learning about the terroir (soil) here. I have been able to observe different parcels, watching how they react differently to the weather, monitoring for maturity and vinifying them separately so that I can taste the different components before deciding the final blend.”
I asked how much input Coppola gives to the selection of wines, “After all of these years spent piecing the original estate back together, Francis has only recently started to feel comfortable giving his opinion on the wines” he said, “The role of the owner is extremely important and Francis is well suited to that role as he is keen to understand, discover, listen.”
Kevin, our personable driver was a longtime Napa resident and he gave us background to many of the locations we passed enroute to our private visit arranged with the grande dame of Napa Valley, Robin Lail at her Mole Hill Estate in Angwin, surrounding her beautiful hillside Lail Vineyards.
Lail Vineyard’s history reaches back five generations to 1879 when her great granduncle Gustav Niebaum founded Inglenook Vineyards. By the 1890’s, Niebaum and his wines had become legendary, and Inglenook was considered by many to be the finest wine producer in the country. Following Niebaum’s death in 1908, the winery was under the guidance of John Daniel Sr. who managed the vineyards until the repeal of Prohibition. When Inglenook passed into the hands of Niebaum’s great-nephew John Daniel Jr. in 1936, he became the steward of Gustav Niebaum’s dreams for the winery, with remarkable results. Working closely with his friend Robert Mondavi, John Daniel Jr. was largely responsible for creating the foundation of the Napa Valley appellation as we see it today. He believed that the wines made in Napa Valley could rival the best wines made anywhere in the world, and he played a significant role in making this vision a reality. When Inglenook was sold in 1964, it was widely recognized as a winery that had changed the face of winemaking in California.
John Daniel Jr.’s daughters inherited the Napanook Vineyard, and the family took a brief hiatus from winemaking. It was Jon Lail, Robin’s husband, who brought the family back into the wine business in the early 1970’s. In 1977, Robin joined Robert Mondavi for a five-year apprenticeship. She then went on to co-found Dominus in 1982 with her sister Marcia Smith and the popular winemaker Christian Moueix. In the following year, Robin co-founded Merryvale Vineyards with Bill Harlan, his partners at Pacific Union and Jon Lail. She served as President of Merryvale for 10 years. In 1995, the Lails established Lail Vineyards with Philippe Melka as winemaker.
I was blessed to have been welcomed into Robin’s gorgeous country hilltop estate with its expansive white decks overlooking the vineyards and valley below. I experienced a private tasting with Robin while her two enormous Bernese Mountain Dogs cuddled by my feet. Our conversation about honoring her father and his dreams was something I will remember for a long time.
Upon our return to the resort we bid our amazing driver goodbye and were treated to a seven course meal custom prepared by the young chef and longtime Napa native Aaron Meneghelli at The Lakehouse Restaurant located at the top of Calistoga Ranch and surrounded by Oak Groves. The Lakehouse offers farm fresh foods include many from its own gardens.
Our hosts for the final night in this magical location were Steve the New York bartender with the quick wit, and the outrageous, hysterical Food and Beverage Manager Joel Gordon, who regaled us with stories. Joel told me about a billionaire’s engagement party he coordinated in the resorts wine cave. The intimate space was filled with flowers, candles and a grand piano and became one of the most elaborate events he has ever hosted, complete with a private concert by Natalie Cole for only two people.
It was difficult to leave this paradise in Northern California but I will definitely return to the open arms and hearts of a land full of true farmers with delicious passions.
