Forgotten relics of the Salt Range

Published December 14, 2014
The Katas Raj is an important Hindu religious site. — Photos by the writer
The Katas Raj is an important Hindu religious site. — Photos by the writer

The Salt Range, which stretches across four districts of Jhelum, Chakwal, Khushab and Attock is a fascinating place for both the historian and the nature enthusiast. Valleys such as Jhangar, Kahoon and Soon are considered to be heaven on earth with springs of fresh water oozing from the foot of the hills and turning into small lakes of clear water.

Scenic landscape, rare trees such as Chhachra or Flame of the forest and species of animals such as the Punjabi Urial an animal found nowhere else on the world, make this area a truly captivating place.

The hills are also dotted with a number of historical sites such as the centuries old Katas Raj Temple, Malot Fort and Nanadna Fort. Unfortunately, the Salt Range which should be preserved for future generations has been left at the behest of cement and mining industries.

According to officials there are as many as sixty two historical sites in the area of the Salt Range that falls in Chakwal district. This year, District Coordination Officer (DCO) Chakwal Asif Bilal Lodhi organised a seminar on the occasion of World Tourism Day.

The speakers at the seminar unanimously called for the preservation and projection of historical sites located in the district so that the area can attract tourists but so far no practically step has been taken in this regard.

However, with the Punjab Archeology Department having a shortage of technical and non-technical staff it is difficult to take up the task of preservation. “We have one person where we need four and not enough funds” said a senior official of the department.

Katas Raj is one of the best known historical sites of the Salt Range. The complex contains seven temples, a sacred pond, the remains of Buddhist Stupas, of an ancient university, Hari Singh Haveli and a grand building of a police station.

The temple in shades of brown overlooks the pool of water which is a vibrant blue with tinges of green.

The remains of Nandna Fort
The remains of Nandna Fort

Legend goes that Lord Shiva shed so many tears over the death of his beloved Satti that it filled two pools of water, one here and the other at Pushkara in Ajmer Sharif. However, there are other legends associated with Katas Raj.

Over the centuries, Katas Raj was revered as one of the holiest sites in Hinduism. Hindu pilgrims bathed in the sacred pond believed to bring salvation and childless women worshipped at the symbolic phallus of Lord Shiva for fertility.

The fortunes of this sacred site were turned when Hindus began migrating to India. The home of Lord Shiva and the holy pool at Katas Raj became inaccessible for those across the border. The temple began to fall into disrepair.

However, General Pervaiz Musharrafs regime, as a goodwill gesture, opened the site for pilgrims from across the border.

On Shivatri (the night of Shiva) Katas Raj, once again comes alive as pilgrims from all over Pakistan and India come to Shiva’s home. But visa restrictions mean that only a few Indian Hindus can visit each year.

Katas Raj has the potential to be developed as a major tourist site, especially for Hindus all over the world.

Ruins of Malot Fort can attract tourists.
Ruins of Malot Fort can attract tourists.

Malot Fort is often described as one the most beautiful forts in the Salt Range. According to historians, the rebellious Janjua King Raja Ajmal Dev Janjua the son of Raja Dhrupet Dev was the first among the Janjuas to convert to Islam. After conversion he renamed himself Raja Mal Khan. In the 12th century, he conquered Koh-e-Jodh, a mountain in the Salt Range and made Rajgarh his capital. Rajgarh was renamed ‘Malot’.

The Malot Fort remained the centre of power of Janjua Empire till the early years of 19th century. Only the ruins of what would have been a magnificent fort stand today. Constructed in local red stones the fort incorporates both Kashmiri and Greek styles in architecture.

The fortified temple complex of Nandna stands atop a hill near Baghanwala village. It is at this very fort that the famous geographer, historian, traveller and mathematician Al-Beruni measured the circumference of the earth.

Historians have been unable to determine the exact period in which this fort was constructed but it is believed that the Nandna was once owned by famous ruler Jayapala Deva of Kabul Shahi who reigned from 964 to 1001 AD.

Nanda Pass runs at the bottom of the hill which was a major road connecting India to the markets of Kandahar. The Nandna Pass was used by the traders and invaders alike.

Nandna Fort was presumably constructed near Nandna Pass so that tax could be charged from traders and attacks from invaders from Afghanistan and Turkey could be thwarted. Alexander the Great also came from this pass after staying in Taxila and fought his last battle with Raja Porus at the bank of Jehlum River, a few kilometres away from Nandna Fort.

But visiting Nandna Fort these days is difficult task as the fort situated at a height of 1500 feet requires one to trek to the top of the hill. However, when manages to reach the top, the view and the remains of the fort are a delight.

A temple’s crumbled edifice and the ruins of a mosque tell of a glorious past with the fort changing hands between various rulers. Again the ancient fortification is made of stone found locally as well as some graves of those who had once walked here.

The scenic town of Kallar Kahar is combines the best of all that the Salt Range has to offer. There are many historical sites such and lake Takht-e-Babri and garden of Bagh-e-Safa.

Takht-e-Babri which literally means the throne of Babar was built by Mughal Emperor Babar to address his army while coming from Kabul to conquer Delhi.

Babar also ordered to plant a garden and that garden was named as Bagh-e-Safa (clean garden). This garden is considered to be the first Mughal Garden in Asia. Sadly, both the garden and the lake are in deplorable state today.

Renowned travel writer Salman Rashid said that in the name of preservation the beauty and originality of Katas Raj Temples had been marred. “Unfortunately our bureaucrats do not know what to do with historical sites. These sites must be preserved with their originality intact”, he said.

Deputy Director of Punjab Archaeology Department Afzal Khan said “A master plan to preserve the historical sites of Punjab province is being made. All the historical sites including Malot and Nandna would be preserved”.

Published in Dawn, December 14th, 2014

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