Kumaon is a little romantic world beyond Nainital and Ranikhet, where scores of tourists descend every year to breathe the pure fresh air. Kumaon is a part of Uttarakhand, a State that comprises two regions (Kumaon & Garhwal), and which is uniquely bordered not only by two States (Himachal Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh), but also by two countries - China to the North and Nepal to the East. The State has a distinct folk culture that the inhabitants have guarded well from ‘modernity’. There is an unexplained romance in the hills of Kumaon. Culture, tradition, folklore, religion, a cocooned sense of obscurity among the people and its self-imposed isolation from the plains, make Kumaon a mysterious paradise of folk culture. The Kumaonis believe that the land is inhabited by fairies and the souls of deceased girls, and that dancing pleases the Gods. Therefore, the folk culture of Kumaon essentially demonstrates the dancing of these fairies. A few popular dances are the Jagar, Chhapeli, Ramola, Choliya, Chancheri and Jhora.
Ramola is a dance performed by the nomadic tribes of Kumaon. As the spring season sets in and the snow melts into the slow flowing streams, the aroma of the flowers announces the arrival of good times. It is believed that the soul of a brother-in-law of Lord Krishna was carried away by fairies and Lord Krishna had to barter for its return by stealing the clothes of the fairies when they were bathing in the river. During the colourful festival of Holi, Ramola performers descend on the village spaces, decked in colourful attire and jewellery, swaying to the beats of the ‘tabla’, ‘manzira’ (cymbals) and ‘dhol’ (drum). Another popular dance is the Jagar, which is performed to please the Gods, Goddesses and the spirits. Jagar is performed to the beats of the ‘dhol’, and also to local instruments like the ‘damua’ and ‘thal’. Since the dance is meant to please the spirits, it is a trance-based dance, where the performer leaps into the air and shouts at the top of his voice. The village priest summons the spirits and declares their wishes to the village folk. An animal is then sacrificed to satisfy the spirits. Chhapeli is am amorous dance. Lovers try to woo each other through ‘folk romance’. The women wear heavy jewellery, like wooden beads, huge bangles and earrings. Their long hair is adorned by a crown, while the male dancers wear ‘churidars’ and caps, and tie a piece of cloth around their necks. They swing the cloth with one hand and point a mirror towards their partner with the other. This dance is popular in the regions of Pithoragarh, Almora and Bageshwar. The dancer synchronises his steps to the beat of traditional instruments, the ‘hurka’ and ‘manzira’. The woman smiles sensually and sways her waist. The man sings praises to her beauty, and lovemaking is explicitly expressed through song. The instrument players form an arc behind the dancers. Choliya is one of the oldest Kumaoni dances, and traces some of its origin from Nepal. The Almora region, which is inhabited by the Rajputs, still follows age-old traditions. Though not ‘professional’ in nature, the dancers exhibit war-like qualities like bravery and valour, wielding sword and shields. They wear turban, anklets and earrings. The dancers move in a group that resembles a ‘baraat’ (wedding procession), and finally halt at the bride’s door. Danpur Patti, near the Pindari Glacier (a 45 kilometre-trek from the town of Song), is home to Chancheri, a dance performed by both sexes. The dance symbolises happiness. It is a slow and beautiful dance, with men and women forming a semi-circle and dancing joyfully. At ‘melas’ in the spring season you can witness a community dance called Jhora. It is a circular dance, orchestrated to the beats of cymbals and the flute. The dancers double up as singers. Men and women hold hands, then alternately bend forward and move backward. A joyful dance, Jhora is also performed during weddings.
Folk dances almost dot every village of Kumaon. Dance here is tradition, symbolism, culture and also a means of worship. Someone has rightly mentioned, “Dancing, in the life of Kumaoni people, is as important as wearing clothes. (They believe that) Gods can be influenced by Dance.” When one passes through ‘Devbhoomi’ Uttarakhand (the Land of the Gods), one needs to pause and ponder at the peaks of Kumaon, or perhaps spend a few days in a quaint village, to understand that tourism is not only about visiting places but also about living their culture.
The Writer is a renowned Kuchipudi Danseuse and Choreographer
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