From farmhouses to cavehouses: World's best alternative hotels

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This was published 9 years ago

From farmhouses to cavehouses: World's best alternative hotels

When you've tired of fancy five-star hotels and fashionable accommodation booking websites, these traditional 'unhotels' around the world, as Ute Junker writes, provide an unrivalled, authentic taste of a destination.

By Ute Junker
Robuer, or traditional fishing cabins, on the Lofoten Islands in Norway.

Robuer, or traditional fishing cabins, on the Lofoten Islands in Norway.Credit: Getty Images

Remember when the very idea of staying in a hotel was exciting? Those grand lobbies. Those bathrobes. Those chocolates on the pillow. It all seemed so opulent and indulgent. These days, it's different. Fewer of us can afford a maid to make our beds every day and many of us have incorporated into our daily lives those luxuries, from high-thread count cotton sheets to massive flat screen TVs, once only experienced in hotels.

When we travel, what many of us now crave is authenticity. We are looking for experiences and accommodation with a sense of place, that can teach us something about the culture we are visiting.

For some, that means ditching hotels in favour of Airbnb. A far better option, however, is to seek out the traditional, often little-known, accommodations still available right around the globe. Countries as diverse as Italy, Spain and Japan all have hospitality traditions dating back a thousand years or more.

A room carved out of rock in Puglia, Italy.

A room carved out of rock in Puglia, Italy.Credit: Alamy

In many places, these old-school lodgings continued even as international hotel chains grew and flourished. Often family-owned, always run according to traditional principles, these character-filled un-hotels will give you a new insight into your destination. From caves to castles, we are sure you will find something that appeals.

FORTIFIED FARMHOUSES, PUGLIA, ITALY

HOW IT WORKS

Cappadocian cave houses at night.

Cappadocian cave houses at night.Credit: Getty Images

We're not just talking your run-of-the-mill farmhouse here. A masseria was originally a fortified farmhouse, designed to keep the inhabitants safe as invading armies swept through the countryside. There used to be a lot of that sort of thing here in the south of Italy: the Saracens, the Normans, the Angevins and the Spanish all invaded at some time or another.

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Today, most masserie (that's the plural) are family-owned farms that usually grow vegetables, sometimes produce wine and always produce olive oil. Some places even have ancient olive oil presses in the backyard. The furniture tends to be simple but the thick walls and tranquil surrounds make for a relaxing stay. Many masserie will also offer meals made using their own produce.

KEEP IT SIMPLE

The Cameleon Suite, Riad Enija, Marrakech.

The Cameleon Suite, Riad Enija, Marrakech.Credit: Alamy

Il Pino Grande, located in northern Puglia, is still very much a working farm. The owners make 70 per cent of their income from the farm; renting out a few rooms is the icing on the cake. The handful of rooms are spacious and furnished with simple heirloom furniture. The masseria's secret weapon is its chef, Giovanni Burdi, who delivers creative cuisine in the wonderfully atmospheric restaurant, formerly the stables. Doubles start from 50 euros per night. See ilpinogrande.it

UPGRADE YOURSELF

Each of Masseria Torre Coccaro's 30 rooms is different, but all combine roughhewn walls with quirky furnishings, from baroque mirrors to sink-into sofas. The most desirable options include the old basement and the hayloft, but there's not a single dud room. The walkways are scented with trailing honeysuckle, there's a lake-like pool, and the subterranean spa uses Aveda products. The food is another highlight. Doubles start from 255 euros per night. See mrandmrssmith.com

A cave house in Cappadocia, Turkey.

A cave house in Cappadocia, Turkey.Credit: Alamy

WHAT TO DO

Puglia is one of Italy's most charming regions, with gorgeous hill towns set amidst endless olive groves. Make time to visit the cathedral in Otranto, where the floor is covered by an astonishing 12th century Tree of Life mosaic covering 65 square metres, and the serene Castel del Monte in the north near Andria, the small town that is also the birthplace of burrata.

MUST KNOW

A cave hotel built in white tufa rock in Cappadocia, Turkey.

A cave hotel built in white tufa rock in Cappadocia, Turkey.Credit: Getty Images

This is a rural holiday, so you will need a rental car to get around.

CAVEHOUSES, CAPPADOCIA, TURKEY

HOW IT WORKS

A guard at Samode Haveli luxury hotel in Jaipur, Rajasthan.

A guard at Samode Haveli luxury hotel in Jaipur, Rajasthan.Credit: Alamy

They're not big on building houses in Cappadocia, and no wonder, with all those caves conveniently scattered through the landscape. The porous volcanic rock, or tufa, that dominates Cappadocia is so malleable that entire cities were carved underground. In an area where the seasons swing between scorching summers and harsh winters, living underground offered shelter from the elements and a pleasant climate of 16 degrees all year, as well as protection from invaders.

While some caves have become tourist attractions, many more have been turned into hotel-style rooms. Whichever town or village you base yourself in, you will find plenty of opportunities to unleash your inner cave(wo)man.

KEEP IT SIMPLE

Parador Ronda in Andalucia, Spain.

Parador Ronda in Andalucia, Spain.Credit: Alamy

The rooms at Sultan Cave Suites are fairly simple, but all have comfortable beds, en suite bathrooms and rugs to protect your feet from the chilly stone. It's the added extras that lift this hotel a cut above the competition. A superb breakfast buffet featuring more than 50 items can be enjoyed on the sunny stone terrace, while the Wine Cave Cellar is a lovely place to curl up with a bottle of local wine. Doubles from at 80 euros. See sultancavesuites.com

UPGRADE YOURSELF

It's not often you stay in a hotel with a 2000-year history, but Argos in Cappadocia is something out of the ordinary. Over the centuries, the caves, underground tunnels and stone houses have functioned as a monastery and a caravanserai for Silk Road merchants, among others. Now this chic hotel offers rooms with sunny terraces and gardens outside; inside, most of the rooms have fireplaces. In the mood to treat yourself? Try one of the Splendid Suites, which have private plunge pools. Regular underground concerts feature classical, jazz and Sufi music. Doubles start from 162 euros. See argosincappadocia.com

WHAT TO DO

One of Cappadocia's must-visit attractions, the underground city of Kaymakli, descends eight storeys into the ground. There is enough room to shelter up to 5000 people for short periods, as well as stables and cellars, kitchens and churches. Also worth visiting are the 10 frescoed cave churches in the Goreme Open Air Museum.

MUST KNOW

Sign up for a dawn balloon flight. Yes, it's touristy, but it's also spectacular.

COURTYARD HOUSES, MARRAKECH

HOW IT WORKS

Not that long ago, the ancient courtyard houses lining the narrow streets of Marrakech's medina were largely decrepit. These days, many of these riads have been reincarnated as atmospheric lodgings. With glazed ceramic zellij tiles, painted wooden ceilings and carved stucco walls, they are the perfect place to let your Oriental fantasies run riot.

Intimate – mostly fewer than six rooms – and often run by expats, riads offer friendly family-style service. They are a great choice for first-time visitors looking for insider advice on what to see and do. On the downside, the rooms tend to be on the small side, and may not come equipped with telephones or televisions.

KEEP IT SIMPLE

Chi-chi by name but not by nature, the rooms at Riad Chi-Chi are ranged around a courtyard with a petal-strewn fountain and a cushioned seating alcove. The rooms are done in soothing cream tones, and the rooftop terrace has a canopied chill-out area, as well as views across the medina. If you get hopelessly lost in the medina, the lovely staff will even come out to find you. Doubles start from 45 euros. See riadchichi.com

UPGRADE YOURSELF

Riad Enija, a 200-year old silk trader's palace, outdoes most other riads not just in size, but also in spectacle. There are gardens filled with tropical plants and two courtyards, but it's the 15 stylish rooms that are the real drawcard. Four poster beds, velvet slippers and (in some rooms) private terraces all score big points. Be aware that, although every room has a private bathroom, in some cases it may be across the corridor. Doubles start from 230 euros. See riadenija.com

WHAT TO DO

There's plenty to explore in the medina, from the beautiful Medersa Ben Youssef to the Maison de la Photographie and the endless stall-lined souks. Dinner in the main square, Jemaa el Fna, is a must.

MUST KNOW

The streets of the medina are labyrinthine, and the riad entrances are discreet, often no more than a plain door. Memorise some local landmarks if you don't want to get lost.

PARADORES, SPAIN

HOW IT WORKS

Tapas is not the only thing the Spanish do well. The government-run parador program has seen a huge number of historic properties converted into accommodation that, in most cases, are very reasonably priced. Often located in the heart of town, each parador is different, but gives you an insight into the area's history.

KEEP IT SIMPLE

Talk about a champagne view on a beer budget – perched on a high Andalusian plateau beside the Puente Nuevo, or New Bridge, which spans a ravine 120 metres deep, the Parador Ronda has dazzling views as well as a swimming pool. The picturesque town of Ronda is usually done as a day trip from Seville, but given the opportunity to sleep here, it's worth staying longer. If your budget is up to it, book one of the duplexes with a terrace. Doubles start from 120 euros. See parador.es

UPGRADE YOURSELF

There are two grand buildings on Praza do Obradoiro in Santiago de Compostela. One is the town's famous 12th century cathedral, the other is the Hostal de Los Reyes Catolicos. It was originally built as a hospice for pilgrims and behind its ornate 16th-century facade, the interiors are a wonderful mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Tapestries, religious paintings and arcaded courtyards enhance the mood; by contrast, the rooms are relatively simple. Doubles start from 155 euros. See parador.es

WHAT TO DO

Paradors tend to be located in or adjacent to the old town, which makes exploring easy. Do your sightseeing in the morning, remembering that across much of Spain, siestas are still the rule. In the late afternoon, browse the local shops before heading out for some tapas.

MUST KNOW

As an added bonus, most paradors also have a restaurant on the premises, which tend to be very good quality.

RYOKANS IN JAPAN

HOW IT WORKS

One of the things that makes Japan such a thrilling destination is the way that tradition is incorporated into every aspect of daily life. Nowhere is that more evident than in the ryokan, a traditional inn that has followed the same format for over 1000 years. The typical ryokan has fewer than 12 rooms, and a communal bath.

The rooms are simple, with tatami matting instead of carpet. Furniture is usually limited to a low table and a couple of cushions, or sabuton, to sit on. Don't let the absence of a bed concern you: the maids will lay out your futon after dinner.

There are more than 50,000 ryokan in Japan, and they can even be found in high-tech metropoles such as Tokyo. However Kyoto, the ancient imperial capital, is the perfect place to try one out.

KEEP IN SIMPLE

It's not just its proximity to Kyoto Station that has given Ryokan Shimizu such a devoted following. Although the decor is simple, the wooden interiors are made of Japanese cypress and the ryokan has helpful staff, free Wi-Fi and bicycles available for hire. Two traditional Japanese soaking baths are available for private use. Doubles start from 10,000 yen. See kyoto-shimizu.net

UPGRADE YOURSELF

The most famous ryokan in Japan has been owned by the same family for 300 years. Tawaraya is celebrated for its manicured gardens, complete with moss-covered stone lanterns, cedar tubs and Zen serenity. The best rooms have their own small private gardens. Book in for one of the elaborate kaiseki dinners. Doubles start from 111,782 Yen; no website; book through japantravel.com.au

WHAT TO DO

For most visitors, the biggest challenge in Kyoto is trying to see how much they can fit in. The Golden and Silver Pavilions should be top of your list, along with a visit to Gion, Japan's last remaining geisha district. Taking part in a tea ceremony and experiencing some of the famous Kyoto cuisine are also priorities.

MUST KNOW

Ryokan are shoe-free zones. If you're travelling in a cooler season, pack some thick socks.

The writer travelled with the assistance of Turespana, Sultan Cave Suites and the Italian State Tourist Board in collaboration with Puglia Promozione.

FIVE MORE LOCAL LODGINGS

SAMODE HAVELI, JAIPUR, INDIA

The ornate havelis, or mansions, erected by India's princes and merchants prove that bling was a thing way before rap was even invented. There are plenty of colourful frescoes and mirrored mosaics inside this spectacular 200-year old residence, but what really impresses us is the ramp at the front door, for visitors arriving on their elephants. See samode.com

JIRYE ARTISTS' COLONY, ANDONG, KOREA

Hanoks, or traditional Korean houses, are an increasingly popular option among travellers. Jirye Artists' Colony, outside the city of Andong, offers not just classic Korean architecture – check out the ondol flooring, heated from underneath by smoke from the fire – but also kimchi making lesson, as well as mountain and river views. See jirye.com

BANYAN TREE, RINGHA, CHINA

Talk about sparing no expense. The owners of this luxurious hotel in China's remote Yunnan province transported traditional farmhouses from Tibet, and turned each one into an indulgent retreat that blends tradition (intricately carved furnishings) with luxury (ah, those beds). See banyantree.com

REINE RORBUER, LOFOTEN ISLANDS, NORWAY

You see them in every photograph of Norway's picturesque Lofoten Islands – the pretty red robuer, or fishing cabins, with their chic white trim. Reine Rorbuer consists of more than 30 cabins, each with simple Scandinavian interiors. Meals are taken care of, too: the old general store has been converted into a restaurant serving fresh fish straight from the sea. See reinerorbuer.no

JALMAN MEADOWS, MONGOLIA

Don't call them yurts. The Mongolians use the word ger to describe the round, felt-lined tents that many of the locals still call home. Those found at Jalman Meadows, in the remote Khan Kentii wilderness area, are more comfortable than most, with king-size beds and a separate candlelit library ger. See nomadicjourneys.com

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