Telluride: Mountain Village hotels, dining, shopping

Just as Telluride is known for having two seasons, it has two towns — Telluride in the valley and Mountain Village higher up. A chairlift connects them. The ride to Mountain Village is an experience; the views on top are pretty special.

This newer, upscale community doesn't have the historical charm of Telluride, but it has plenty of lodging, restaurants and access to skiing and other sports.

Every hotel in Mountain Village has an adventure desk, said Todd Gehrke of Hotel Madeline. Staff can organize your day with a heli-skiing adventure or a peaceful family sleigh ride, book time at a spa and make dinner reservations. They will talk to you before you arrive and work out the details so you don't waste a minute of your time in the mountains.

Eating and shopping are a snap because everything you need is a short walk away at one of the many plazas. You can walk from one to the next, from restaurant to bar to sport shop.

Several Telluride businesses have satellite locations in Mountain Village, including Steaming Bean, Telluride Sports and Telluride Truffle chocolate shop. The village has a boutique and an ice-skating rink. You'll find all manner of eateries, and you don't have to spend a lot on lunch or dinner if you don't want to.

There are pizza places, a sports bar and a hot-dog joint called Diggity's Dog House. Siam's Talay Grille, featuring tapas and seafood, The Little Bar at Lumiere and Rev restaurant offer high-end choices. Smak Bar, in Hotel Madeline, beckons with a simple phrase: Boots off. Feet up. Glasses raised.

Lodging options

Places to stay range from single rooms to condos to plush penthouses. Hotels boast ski-in, ski-out access, plus lockers, boot doctors to get you set up and the chairlift just a short, snowy stretch away. Here are a few recommendations:

Tomboy Tavern: A few years ago, after a backpacking trip up a big mountain, a buddy and I visited Tomboy to get our fill of burgers and beer. A band was playing nearby, and lots of pedestrians were milling about Tomboy's outdoor bar. During this October visit, there was not much pedestrian traffic and Tomboy Tavern was one of the few places open. I stopped in for lunch and had the tasty Tomboy shrimp tacos, with white corn tortillas, grilled shrimp, pico de gallo and avocado ($14). Most items on the menu will hit the spot without breaking the bank.

Details: 562 Mountain Village Blvd. telluride.com/tomboy-tavern.

Mountain Lodge: This is exactly how you would picture a winter getaway: log and stone construction, a gas fireplace in the room, a balcony with mountain views. The kitchen and bathroom floors are stone; the trim and furniture a rich, knotty pine. The fully outfitted kitchen has a stove, refrigerator, coffee maker, microwave and table for four. The tub has whirlpool jets for those aching joints after a day on the slopes. The balcony overlooks pine trees and a distant mountain range. The bedroom has a television. Hotel amenities include a bar and restaurant, slopeside ski access, local paper, Wi-Fi, bathrobes, heated pool and spa services.

Details: 457 Mountain Village Blvd. mountainlodgetelluride.com.

Hotel Madeline: This luxury property has a restaurant, bar, spa and room types that range up to a swank penthouse. Staff can arrange activities before you arrive. "We try to give as much of a planned experience as possible," Gehrke said. "We try to customize it to the individual." Hotel Madeline has 85 rooms, 70 suites and condos with one to four bedrooms. Guests can use an open-air pool, fitness center, salon and other amenities.

Details: 568 Mountain Village Blvd. hotelmadelinetelluride.com.

Lumiere Hotel: This smaller property offers the same high-end experience as its larger neighbors. The hotel has 29 rooms that can be booked to meet the needs of groups large and small. Various styles and combinations, from residence-style lodging with a full kitchen to a five-bedroom penthouse with a private deck, hot tub and mountain views. Lumiere has a bar that also serves sushi and tapas.

Details: 118 Lost Creek Lane. lumieretelluride.com.