Dining Out: Qin Dynasty

By TED POWERS, Food Editor
The first imperial dynasty of China was the Qin dynasty, lasting from 221 to 206 B.C.E. It derived its name from its heartland of Qin, in modern-day Gansu and Shaanxi. It eventually conquered the other warring states to gain control over the whole of China. The most ambitious project was a wall on the northern border, now known as the Great Wall of China. The Qin dynasty also introduced several reforms: Currency, weights and measures were standardized and a uniform system of writing was established.

Qin Dynasty, the restaurant, is large, stunning and picturesque, with the most superb Hunan food. It is one of my favorite places for Chinese food and, I believe, Houston’s premier location for Asian cuisine. The artwork, sculptures and décor make the dining room as exquisite as the food. When you park, take notice of the Terra Cotta Warriors guarding the front entrance. Beautiful music on a grand piano (Thursday to Saturday) adds to the ambience.

Dinner began with two incredible appetizers. First was Beijing Duck, roasted with its crispy skin and meat rolled in crepes with scallions, cucumbers and an amazing plum sauce for dipping. The other was Minced Chicken in Lettuce Wrap. I don’t know how they get such perfect iceberg cups. Each dish comes with two wraps, so it is easy to share.

Soup was next, and I usually order their excellent hot and sour soup, but this time, I tried the Pumpkin Bisque. The first spoonful convinced me this was my new go-to soup. Steamed pumpkin was pureed and simmered, served very hot with sliced button mushrooms on top. You must try this one!

For the main dish, my table shared three plates – Shanghai Crispy Orange Roughy, Orange Chicken and Black Pepper Beef Tenderloin. The Orange Roughy included sweet peas, red bell pepper, mushrooms and shredded ginger in a sweet rice wine sauce, garnished with shredded green onion and cilantro. This beauty was rich and intricate. Orange Chicken was lightly breaded and heat-tossed in Tso’s sauce with lots of orange peel. I loved this combination of orange peel and white breast meat. The tenderloin was grilled and topped with dry shallots, aged soy sauce and topped with red wine and black peppercorn sauce. It was served on a sizzling plate. What a great mixture of flavors and textures in our main course. When you come with a bunch of people, it’s fun to eat on a Lazy Susan table.

I was impressed with the dessert menu and finally decided on two – Honey Crispy Lychee and Fried Tempura Ice Cream. Both were knockouts, but the Lychee was my favorite. The fruit was breaded and fried, topped with honey and served with a large scoop of chocolate ice cream and whipped cream. The Tempura covered a scoop of vanilla ice cream, deep-fried, then served in a sundae dish with chocolate syrup and whipped cream. Great ending to a fabulous meal!

Sushi and sashimi lovers will enjoy the large menu, and fish folks will enjoy the variety of fish like Chilean sea bass, salmon, tilapia and the roughy, of course, all done in a variety of ways.

Vegetarians will be keen on all the meatless items. There are dishes like Buddha’s Eggplant, made with basil, cilantro, jalapeno and celery, braised in a clay pot. Another winner is Spicy Szechwan Bean Curd, with pickled mustard greens and spicy Szechwan peppercorn sauce. There are 10 veggie main dishes on the menu, as well as appetizers, soups and sushi rolls.

Planning a party? Qin Dynasty has two private rooms holding 40 and 45 guests. They also will make up platters for you to serve at home. They are located at 5115 Buffalo Speedway, Suite 900, 713-660-8386, qindynasty.biz.