Recent Archaeological findings of Ladakh

Dr. Sonam Spalzin
Ladakh is the richest district of India in every aspect. It is dotted with beautiful monasteries, long  ‘manay’ (mchod-rtens) walls, votive (mchod-rtens) stupas, chains of colourful mountains, calm oasis and  lakes, folklore, ruin castles which speak about its glorious past and beautiful  people. World famous Indian scholars prove that Ladakh was inhabited by different settlers during different periods. It was the earliest habitation during pre-historic times in the area and it is for this reason  Ladakh is popularly known as the roof of the world. Tools and artifacts belonging to Palaeolithic and Neolithic periods from this area prove that it was inhabited by early man. During my  exploration with my friend we exposed gravel on the right bank of the river Indus revealing many Palaeolithic tools consisting of chopper (unifacial), chopper (bifacial), discoids, worked pebbles and  primary flakes (Plate 1). Hence the cultural matrix of Ranbirpura predates to Pleistocene period. Apart  from our research there are countless evidences on prehistoric settlements in different areas of Ladakh where  from experts collected countless artifacts.
My second interesting finding is Bon castle in this region. It is believed that before Buddhism in Ladakh it was dominated by a religion called Bon. The time period for Bon religion  in Ladakh goes to 7th century B.C. and it is also known as pre-Buddhist era. Thus, the ruined castle of  Bon in Ranbirpur is located on the summit of a hillock called the castle of King Surgamati (Sury- amati, “sun-mind”). On inscriptions at Khalatse we  find Shirima (Sriman) and probably Satyamati (“Truth-mind”), besides several other names.  At present this  ruin castle site is known as Sonam-mati which is corrupted word of Surya-mati (Plate 2). It is in  random rubble masonry because of its dilapidated condition. Presently, it’s difficult to specify the  nature of the structure. On the slope of this structure many of the pottery fragments of redware have  been found (Plate 3). The name Ranbirpur is a modern Dogra name. This site and Bon castle  existence is mentioned in famous manuscripts and Gyalrabs available which prove the existence. A  few ancient Indian personal names also have been preserved in folklore and inscriptions.
After the advent of Buddhism in Ladakh, during the reign of Ashoka around 3rd century B.C. when he was  propagating Buddhism all over India and outside as well, It was Sthatira Madyammika with his  followers who was deputed to Kashmir and Gandhara for teaching Buddhism.   Buddhism in Ladakh in attributed to Ashoka. However till date no  Archaeological remains of Ashokan period have been found in Ladakh region except the scanty remains of stupa (mchod-rten) at Teri (Plate 4), Changthang region of Leh District. This stupa of Teri  is most fascinating Buddhist structure have I found in Ladakh during my research.  Though the dissemination of teaching started from Kashmir side during Ashokan period. But it was more  vigorous during the Kushana period.  After Ashokan period the structural activity of Kushana period was  more prolific. During the first century A.D, he also constructed a stupa named Kanika at Sani in  Zanskar valley of Kargil District. When I went to the Sani to confirm whether it is really a early  Buddhist stupa of Kanishka I was surprised to see the veneered, andh, yasti, chatravali akin to  the stupas of other part of country of the same era (Plate 5).
My recent finding is first monastery of Ladakh. It was the emperor of Kashmir named Surendra who  constructed a first vihara in 2nd century B.C beyond Zojila pass at Saurasa or present day Suru in  Kargil District. It is mentioned in many books. The construction is attributed to Surendra, son of the King  Khamendra. Till now, this site was not located by anyone. This is my recent finding and it is most  fascinating monastic remains of Ladakh. This is located on the left bank of Suru River and left side of  recent metallic road (Plate 6). After crossing a small dense jungle, approached to the top of the  hillock where vihara is in ruins and debris of the monastery is scattered. From the top of the  hillock entire Kargil can be viewed. Need to be investigated to get more information about the site.
Kargil is an important centre of Buddhism and we are getting numerous evidences from this region.  During our  recent excavation at Namsuru we excavated  of three feet Avalokitesvara in the  vicinity of the same vihara (Plate 7). Two more sculptures were already found a week before. Few kilometers  away from a village there is a village called Tsangra  where two more beautiful sculptures of Buddha and  depiction of stupa (mchod-rten) on rock were found from the lower storey of an old house of Barsha by  the locals. Largest rock relief Mulbek Maitreyas, Kartse Maitreya, Tumail/Apathi Maitreya are in Kargil  region of Ladakh. Earliest Buddhist archaeological remains and recent findings substantiate that  Kargil is archaeologically rich in Ladakh.
There is always confusion among people and unfortunately Ladakh is named as little Tibet and I  contradict this point. The  Westerners as well as some of the Indians also mention in their texts,  that Ladakh was part of Tibet which seems absurd. There are several evidences which reveal that Ladakh  was an independent state and it had nothing to do with Tibet. Even if we read the chronological order of  kings of Ladakh, it  shows that it had genealogical links with Ladakh only. It is said that  king of Kosala (Bihar), Gsal-rgyal (Prasenajit), who was of Chomdandas (Buddha’s) family, had five  sons. The third of them was suggested by a great Brahmin to send him to the snowy Northern  regions who was later known as ‘Great Gna-khribtsan-po (Nari-stanpo). He was an ancestor of the Ladakhi  kings mentioned in the following inscription. The time period of the Gna-khri-btsan-po’s (Narisanpo)  was given different by different scholars. According to I.J. Schmidt’s 313 B.C., according to  Schlaginiweit and S. Ch. Das; 416 B.C; before Buddha according to the Bon-pa chronicles. The sites like  Phyang, Umla in Ladakh where Gna-khri-btsan-po’s (Nari-stanpo) constructed his castles are mentioned in  many of the books.  He also played a significant role in various aspects of life during his rule. He resided at  the castle Phyi-dban-stag-rtse, this is the same village which  is presently known as Phyang eight miles  from Leh (Plate 8). At present it is empty shell with no roof, doors, windows. The castle is  constructed in random rubble masonry technique and the  material for this construction seems to have been brought  from nearby area. At present Guru Lakhang is constructed on the side of the ruins. From the ruins, it is  easy to trace  that this castle was once a magnificent castle where from he his kingdom. Among  his public works, he built the palace of Hum-bu-bla-sgan (Umla, eight miles from Phyang).
The ruin  castle of Umla is also in the  centre of the village and on the left side of the village settlement  (Plate 9). Locals constructed latho on the side of the ruin. Apart from the early historic site, this  is rich prehistoric site, because six cupil marks were found below the  castle which is not found elsewhere in Ladakh and in Kashmir. A similar cupil  mark has been found in Malangpur in  Avantipur, Kashmir. This cupil marks helps us to understand that this  area was used by early man as a factory for shaping their tools (Plate 10). Pot shred is common in  Ladakh and reported from many sides in Ladakh which signifies historical period. Here in Umla for the  first time the pottery has been   found beneath the hillock. The pottery found in the area.
(The author is Assistant Archaeological in ASI)

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