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Zu Tisch in Greater Kailash 1 serves up Bavarian fare beyond superlatives

Given that it’s Ocktoberfest, a European bistro, which specialises in all things Bavarian, seemed a logical dining option.

Given that it’s Ocktoberfest, a European bistro, which specialises in all things Bavarian, seemed a logical dining option. A short walk up a flight of stairs leads one to Zu Tisch, newly opened in Greater Kailash I. Garbed in white, walls scrawled over with a map of Germany inlaid with dark wooden pillaring, vintage lanterns, and a prominent bar, Zu Tisch clearly takes its theme seriously; the fast-paced EDM bouncing off the walls completing the package. Achtung, baby!

The menu reads like a road map of Continental Europe, with a few detours to Asia; Ze Germans find pride of place here, dominating all sections, umlauts and all. While the emphasis is clearly on meat, there is a fair selection of fare for herbivores. We decide to stick to the theme and concentrate on the Germanic provender. This turns out to be the best decision we’ve made in a long while.

We begin with the Frikadelle mit Pommes Frites (pork meatballs served with in-house potato wedges), the Wurstteller mit Sauerkraut und Kartoffel puree (Sausage platter with three different kinds of sausages: smoked, weisswurst and wiener, served with mashed potatoes), and to give our jaws a break, good ol’ BBQ Pork Spare Ribs.

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As it turns out, there’s nothing good or ol’ about the ribs; they are fantastic and the things they do to our palate are a brand new experience. Forgive us our eulogy, but there was never a dish that deserved it more. Texturally, the meat just melts in your mouth, utterly and completely, think a porcine version of the softest chocolate you’ve ever had. Flavour-wise, the sticky BBQ sauce is superimposed with the clarion notes of cinnamon, red chilli, brown sugar; when combined with the charred-on-the-outside, fatty-on-the-inside pork, well it’s a dish that deserves its own paragraph.

Shaking ourselves out of our reverie (alas, without a rib to spare) we observe the other starters on our table. The meatballs pack another flavour-filled mouthful; tender but substantial meat infused with herbs that takes to the accompanying aioli like the lead pair of a romantic novel. The sausages are formidable, the weisswurst resembling a small missile and the other two not much smaller, grilled to a T and served with a superlative potato mash (which ends up being the sole vegetable in our meal).

Festive offer

We continue this Wagnerian journey with our main course, ordering the ubiquitous Schnitzel and Eisbein, a slow-roasted and braised lamb shank. Traditionally the latter is made with pork but perhaps that would have been being too much of a pig. The Schnitzel comes a la Cordon Bleu, meaning the pounded, breaded and pan-fried chicken breasts are stuffed with Prague ham and Gouda cheese. A combination like that means only good things happening in the mouth and that’s exactly how it goes down. The lamb, smeared with brown sauce and dotted with caramelised pearl onions brings our journey to a palatable finish. Given that by now we resemble the presumably happy pigs we previously consumed, we beg off dessert. To be perfectly honest, we would probably have gone with the ribs again anyway.

Meal for two: Rs 2,500 (with taxes and alcohol)
Address: M-18, M-Block Market, GK1. Contact: 9810885447

First uploaded on: 15-10-2014 at 00:00 IST
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