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The splendour that is stone

Last Updated 06 October 2014, 16:39 IST

Hard as a stone may be, when cut and shaped artistically, it can melt hearts. Chitra Ramaswamy describes the Kalleshwara Temple in Davangere, a wonder built in stone.

The east-facing Kalleshwara Temple situated close to the embankment of a huge tank at Bagali in Harpanahalli taluk of Davangere, is awe-inspiring. Bagali, known as Balguli in medieval times, was an important agrahara during the times of the Kalyani Chalukyas and the subsequent Hoysala and Vijayanagara rulers. 

Thirty six inscriptions found in the complex and at many other sites in the
 village, are preserved in a museum, a few hundred metres from the Temple.
 According to these inscriptions, the main deity known as Kali Deva, came to be known as Kalleshwara. 

The Temple built from soapstone, is believed to have taken shape during the reign of the western Chalukyan king Ahavamalla in 987 CE and built by Duggimayya. It is surmised that it was built over two eras: that of the Rashtrakutas and the Kalyani Chalukyas, as evident from the architectural styles. 

The Temple is particularly known for its intricately carved doorways with multiple door jambs, a testimony to which may be seen on the lintel of the entrance leading to the dancing hall. 

This reveals a three-tiered relief work with Gaja Lakshmi flanked by elephants at the lowest rung, rishis and munis in the middle band and the pantheon of gods on the topmost row. 

The exquisite doorways, the ornamentation on the several pillars that support the dancing hall and the intricately sculpted idols of the pantheon of deities speak volumes about the architectural prowess of the artisans of the Chalukyan period. 

Intricacies in stone

The garbagriha or sanctum, antarala or antechamber and the maha mandap, a main closed hall with an entrance to the south and east are attributed to the Rashtrakuta period. The maha mandap contains sculptures of several deities including the Shiva family and goddess Mahishasuramardhini. 

The sabha mantap or dancing hall, which opens out from the maha mandap, and the shrines of Narasimha and Surya are representative of Chalukyan architecture. The dancing hall with 54 ornate lathe-turned pillars supports a decorative ceiling that vividly captures the navagrahas perched on their respective mounts. 

The pillars have a square base on which are sculpted images that reflect Hoysala workmanship. 

While most of these sculptures are of dancing damsels, no two of them are alike. The carving of Rathi and Manmatha on one of these pillars is a unique feature of the temple embellishment. 

The shrine to Surya stands directly facing the main garbagriha from which opens a small hall or mukha mandap. A modestly embellished Nandi adorns the rear end of the dancing hall, standing right in front of the main sanctum of Kalleshwara, with its back to the Sun God.

Depiction of mythology

The idol of Ugra Narasimha in particular, is eye catching. It is splendid as it is intricately carved with utmost care. It is sculpted from saligrama stone and shows Vishnu slaying Hiranyakashpu while his son Prahlad and Narada Muni stand witness to the event. 

The fierce avatar of Vishnu is flanked by his consorts Sridevi and Bhudevi. On the periphery of the idol are sculpted the weapons wielded by Vishnu in his various avatars. 

There are eight sub-shrines in the precincts surrounding the main temple structure which is set in the midst of lush and well-manicured lawns. These structures include the Panchalinga shrines, one each dedicated to Rama, Lakshmana, Bharata, Shatrugna and Sita. 

A pushkarani or sacred pond, in the shape of a miniature stepwell of sorts lies adjacent to the sanctum of Surya. Few alluring carvings of apsaras, men and beasts lie scattered on the outer wall and tower of the main shrine, thereby earning the temple the title of ‘Khajuraho of South India.’

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(Published 06 October 2014, 16:39 IST)

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