JOIN USI had not visited North India except for Delhi, so I was quite excited to know that my first visit to the hills would be in Uttarakhand.
Taking a train from Delhi, I arrived at Kathgodam around 11 pm. I had an overnight halt before starting my journey to the northern hills. Post a breakfast of hot aloo paratha, I was set and had a local cab at my service. Headed to Kosi the first big town I came across was Bhimtal, where the centre stage was the beauty of a natural lake.
We stopped by at the famous Kainchi Dham. This is a beautiful, secluded mountain ashram located in the Kumaon Hills in Uttarakand. Started by Baba Neeb Karoliji Maharaj, this temple has marble figures of Lord Shiva, Vindhyavasini Devi, Vaishno Devi and Hanuman. As you enter you can hear bhajans being sung by a few people. This, I am told, is common.
What also caught my attention was the plethora of beautiful flowers grown on the premises. As you head out, stop by at the little eateries located adjacent to the temple. You must sample the local and popular moong dal pakoda and lemon shikanji here. Outdoorsy affair
I then reached Almora. Considered the cultural heart of the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, this district has several colonial-era buildings, reliable trekking outfits and a few community-based weaving enterprises. It’s also known for a unique sweet dish called ‘chocolate’, which must be on your list of things to buy. My destination, however, was at Kosi, a lovely and picturesque valley where the river flows in all its glory through the stones, creating a breathtaking visual.
The best way to explore this virgin destination is to get local help, and I was fortunate that Siddhartha helped me with a lot of unknown facets here.
Kosi is a quiet place where you can reconnect with nature and is completely removed from any kind of urbanisation. It’s close to Kausani (about 17 km away), where one can see the Gandhi ashram, a tea factory and a shawl factory. If you have time, head to the Baijnath group of temples for a spiritual experience. I had a chance to visit the Lodh valley and witness paddy cultivation.
Yes, you read that right. This is the highest altitude where paddy is cultivated. I was also lucky to be there during the harvest season, and the womenfolk gladly obliged for some pictures. The varying shades of green interspersed with yellow makes the landscape picturesque.
Picture window
I then headed to Mukteshwar, located at an altitude of 7,500 feet above sea level. The temperature here is cooler by several degrees allowing a plenty of fruit cultivation. Set amidst the conifer forests and orchards, Mukteshwar offers the most enchanting view of the Himalayas and its snow-bound peaks.
This is the fruit belt of apples, plums, peaches and apricot trees. I met a few young children selling apples and pears on the road.
However, nothing could prepare me to see my childhood dream — an apple orchard. Short trees bursting with the fruit and spread all over with wild flowers is a sight that must be experienced. Again, I was fortunate to be here in the right season (July), when the fruits were being harvested and packed in cartons before being sent out to markets.
Incidentally, Mukteshwar gets its name from a 350-year-old temple of Shiva known as Mukteshwar Dham, situated atop the highest point in the town. Close to it lie the overhanging cliffs, locally known as Chauli-ki-Jali, used for rock climbing and rappelling, with an excellent view of the valleys below.
Rounding off
The sunrise point is at the government-run PWD guest house. This is where Jim Corbett, the world-renowned hunter and nature lover, came to shoot a tiger and fell in love with the place’s natural beauty. Among the major peaks visible from here are Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot, Nanda Ghunti, Trisul and Panchchuli.
My last stop was at Sattal in the Nainital district, where seven lakes interconnect to form one of the most beautiful lakes in Uttarakhand. Situated at an altitude of 1,370 metres above sea level, and surrounded by some beautiful oak forests, Sattal is an absolute heaven for migratory birds.
If you seek souvenirs, check out the Himjoli stores located in every town, it offers you a plethora of products — handicrafts, jams, pickles and a range of organic cosmetics. You can buy fresh apples or delicious apple jams, or perhaps the Rhododendron squash made from a local flower, which has several health benefits. I felt bad while leaving the place.
But, going by Siddhartha’s words, the Himalayas are addictive. And I would surely return.