Heating things up at the Gaslight Bar & Brasserie

The bright, airy Gaslight Bar & Brasserie throws a fresh light on dining at the Grand Old Lady of Eyre Square, says Lucinda O'Sullivan, following her visit to Galway's Hotel Meyrick

Lucinda O'Sullivan

Hotel Meyrick stands majestically overlooking Galway's Eyre Square and is very much at the heart of what the City of the Tribes is all about. Formerly known as the Great Southern Hotel, it is one of our Grand Old Ladies of the hospitality industry, which also includes such venerable institutions as The Malton in Killarney; Parknasilla Resort at Sneem; the Park Hotel in Kenmare; and The Shelbourne in Dublin.

Built in 1852, Hotel Meyrick has served over six million guests, including Prince Louis Napoleon of France; the famous aviators Alcock and Brown, who made the first non-stop transatlantic flight in 1919; legendary movie stars such as Bing Crosby, John Wayne and Fred Astaire, and a host of modern-day celebrities. Galway is a city where there is always a festival, always a happening, and the social scene is very often centred around the Meyrick.

Last year, I visited Hotel Meyrick when they held the Galway Subscription Ball, a retro dinner showcasing Victorian dishes, in their long-standing Oyster Grill Restaurant - a very fine, but very dark room, in a prime position to the front of the building, overlooking Eyre Square. Since then, it has been all change and, it has to be said, a change very much for the better for the times we live in today.

What they have created now is a superbly sociable, bright, airy space called the Gaslight Bar & Brasserie. A big bar holds court in the centre of the room, while banquette seating in a subtle, neutral-hued leather, lines the walls. It is now a much more accessible place where you can just walk in at any time of the day or evening for good casual food, or for a few drinks and cocktails.

The day menu included brunch dishes such as eggs Benedict and omelettes; hip sambos such as pulled pork in a Waterford blaa; or thinly sliced roast beef on ciabatta with horseradish mayo, caramelised balsamic onions and celeriac crisps.

From a starter selection (€6.95-€12.50), which included traditional chicken liver pate with warm toasted brioche and a redcurrant and gin compote; salt and chilli crispy smoked-chicken salad; wild sauteed mushroom bruschetta and oysters, Brendan had a delicious, fresh, chunky and filling bowl of seafood chowder (€6.95) served with home-made brown bread.

Being in the West, I was on a seafood mission and I wasn't disappointed, kicking off with a bowl of succulent crab claws (€12.50), which had been simmered in garlic and lemon butter.

Mains (€14.00-€16.95) sported moules frites; freshly baked Atlantic hake on creamed leeks with grilled chorizo; Mediterranean fish stew; a '3 Little Pigs' combo dish of ribs, a black-and-white pudding fritter, and mini pork burgers; and a crumbed piri piri chicken dish.

Brendan had an excellent 8oz burger (€14.95) with slaw in a Waterford blaa, topped with gherkin, all held together by a skewer, and served with perfect fries.

They also had sharing plates of fish, meat or cheese, for one or two people. I went for The Surf Board (€12.75/€20) which sported smoked salmon, peppered mackerel, smoked-trout mousse, a brace of langoustines in their shells, mixed leaves, capers and more lovely crab claws, with a bowl of Bloody Mary dressing. It is hard to beat a good seafood platter; it's the sort of food that most of us love.

We passed on puds, which included that lovely clafoutis fruit pudding from the Limousin region of France, as well as baked Alaska; plus a warm chocolate pudding with vanilla ice-cream; and a gluten-free orange and almond cake, all at €5.25.

With two 175ml glasses (€8.50 each) of Italian La Piuma Terre di Chieti Pecorino and two espressos (€2.50 each) our bill with optional service was €76.15.

Gaslight Bar & Brasserie, Hotel Meyrick, Eyre Square, Galway, Co Galway.

Tel: (091) 564-041

hotelmeyrick.ie

lucindaosullivan.com

Three to try: Hotel Eateries

The Westbury Hotel

Grafton Street,

Dublin 2

Tel: (01) 646-3311

doylecollection.com

Style

Relaxed elegance in the very heart of D2, with views overlooking Grafton Street. The all-day seafood and steak menu includes caviar, oysters, foie gras and Hereford beef burgers

Price: Mains, €15-€34

Try: Roast Atlantic halibut with saffron aioli, €28

Wine: From €28.50

McGettigan's Cookhouse & Bar

Ambassador Hotel, Military Hill, Cork Tel: (021) 453-9000

mcgettiganscookhousecork.ie

Style: A bar and eatery with book-lined walls, polished floors and button-backed leather seating. The extensive menu includes popular favourites such as fish and chips, pasta, steaks and much more

Price: Mains, €12.95-€22.50

Try: Skillet of Cork-landed fish, served with soda farls, €16.95

Wine: From €20

Cafe Bar

The Glasshouse, Swan Point, Sligo

Tel: (071) 919-4300

theglasshouse.ie

Style: Contemporary citrus colours, plus a cool, relaxed atmosphere in the heart of Sligo town. The menu offers a wide range of eclectic dishes from Thai red curry to lasagne and steaks

Price: Mains, €10.50-€19.50

Try: Slow-braised rump of Sligo lamb with creamy mash, €16.50

Wine: From €19.50