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Sep 06, 2014

JAIN CELEBRATION IN GOLD

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Part 1 of 8

Part 1 of 8

A visit to the Nasiyan Mandir in Ajmer was a revelation for MUNISH SABHARWAL. It inspired him to go within and make his life’s journey extraordinary

Part 2 of 8

Part 2 of 8

On the way from the Ajmer railway station to the Dargha Sharif, stands a temple that houses an unusual treasure — an amalgam of art,peace, gold, marble, divinity and faith. Overshadowed by two famous pilgrim destinations — the Sufi saint Moinuddin Chishti’s dargah, and the Pushkar Lake — the Nasiyan Jain Mandir is little known outside the Jain community. I could have easily missed the unassuming structure, had it not been for a local friend who had briefed me about it. Actually, the temple has two sections — the main shrine that is dedicated to Rishabhdev,the first Jain tirthankara, and a museum that houses artefacts related to the Jain religion. I decided to visit the museum first.

Part 3 of 8

Part 3 of 8

Glowing Tribute

As I entered the museum from the side entrance, there was nothing to indicate what was inside. I left my shoes at the rickety shoe rack, paid the entrance fee of Rs 10, and climbed the steep stairs.The old, dull walls were full of scratch marks and scribblings.Just as I wondered if the visit was worth all the trouble, I caught a glimpse of what the hall in the first floor held. What I saw through the glass window at the first landing left me spellbound.There was gold everywhere — on the walls, on the ceilings and in the huge display at the centre. I have never before seen so much gold at one place.

Part 4 of 8

Part 4 of 8

The exquisite diorama depicts the Panch Kalyanak, or five stages in the life of Rishabhdev, also called Adinath — conception, birth, renunciation,enlightenment and moksha or salvation.One section that shows Indra, the Lord of Heaven, seated on his elephant mount Airavat, which also carries the baby Rishabh on its back, arrested my attention.

The diorama also shows the Jain concept of the ancient world, with 13 continents and oceans, the intricate golden city of Ayodhya where Rishabhdev was born, flying peacock and gilded elephants with many trunks. There are gold-plated replicas of other Jain temples from across the country. The entire display is encased in glass.To get a closer view of this divine ‘Disneyland’, I had to use my camera’s zoom. If only they allowed me to go beyond the glass casing to see the details!

Part 5 of 8

Part 5 of 8

The spectacle made me wonder if it was actually a work of art inspired by faith or was it simply an attempt to bag a Guinness Book of World Record entry for the maximum number of gold-plated miniatures in one place.

Models of heavenly flying vehicles in the air attached to threads that are barely visible, gives you an idea of the planning that went into conceiving and building such a structure, 144 years ago by Seth Moolchand Soni.

Part 6 of 8

Part 6 of 8

Thousands of individual parts in gold have been meticulously assembled.It is a celebration in gold.The Swarn Nagari is one of the most astonishing architectural creations of the universe as explained in the Jain manuscript, the Adi Purana.

In spite of an estimated 500 kg of gold used inthe display, it finds no mention  in the ethos and principles of  humility practised by the Jains.The intricate detailing with which thecomplex has been worked out could not have been achieved by the artisans without spiritual fervour and devotion. The heavenly aura that the diorama gives forth, took me to a different plane.

Part 7 of 8

Part 7 of 8

The museum had remained hidden not only from most of India, but also from India’s first prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru, who remarked on his first visit in 1945:“I have been to Ajmer many times, but somehow I did not pay a visit to this Jain temple.I had no idea that there was such a remarkable collection of Indian artistic work here. In effect, this is a museum of an unusual kind…something notonly about Jain philosophy and art but also about Indian art.”

Still glowing from the visit to the Swarn Mandir museum, I decided to pay obeisance to the first Jain tirthankara at the Nasiyan Mandir adjacent to the museum. Though the museum is open to all, visiting the temple is encouraged more for Jain religious ceremonies.

Part 8 of 8

Part 8 of 8

The sanctum sanctorum houses the idol of Rishabhdev seated in the samavasharana, a three-layered circular structure with a sacred ashok tree at its centre —where he is shown imparting true knowledge to mankind so that they get liberated from the cycle of birth and death. I too learnt a valuable lesson:The temple complex, very ordinary to look at from the outside is extraordinary from the inside, and I too must go within to make my life’s journey extraordinary.

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