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Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s visit to Japan takes MADAN M MATHUR back in time when he was floored by the supernal beauty of Kyoto, the city of shrines
Part 2 of 10
Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s decision to start his first visit to Japan with the ancient city of Kyoto has made this heritage city the focus of international attention. Located about 360 km west of Tokyo, and a threehour journey by the famous Shinkansen bullet train through picturesque green countryside,Kyoto was the capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years until 1868, when the Meiji regime selected Tokyo as the new capital. Although the centre of political power shifted to Tokyo, Kyoto continues to be the spiritual home of Japan and the cradle of the country’s unique fine arts, learning and literature.
Part 3 of 10
Known as the treasure house of Japanese arts from the middle to modern ages, Kyoto abounds in historic temples and shrines.There are over 1,600 temples and 260 shrines spreadacross the city; these revered places preserve hundreds of sculptures and paintings designated as national treasures,attracting millions of tourists from all over the world.Among these historic monuments, the most popular are the Kiyomizu and Kinkakuji temples.
Part 4 of 10
Down Teapot Lane
Modi’s visit to Kyoto brought back memories of my first visit to the Kiyomizu Temple here some years ago.One of the oldest temples in Japan, it was initially built in 798 CE and was destroyed or burnt down 10 times in the past owing to war or natural disasters, but each time, it was restored to its original state.
To reach the main temple,we had to go up a sharp sloping road called the Teapot Lane,which was lined on both sides by numerous souvenir shops selling a large variety of traditional art and craft wares. Going farther up the hill, we found two other sloping roads descending to the right, lined with several shops selling traditional china items, woodcut prints, antiques and dolls.
Part 5 of 10
The main sanctuary of the temple,built on a slope, has a stage called ‘The stage of Kiyomizu’, which is supported by a grill foundation made of wooden posts erected by the cliff side without using a single nail.When a decisive step is to be taken, the Japanese use an expression that translates to ‘Jump off the stage of Kiyomizu’.
While we stood marvelling at the sheer height of the cliff, our guide startled us by stating that people who wanted to commit suicide preferred to jump down the stage! On further enquiry we were surprised to learn that suicide is not considered a crime in Japan but is an honourable way of dying! In any case, the stage offers an enchanting view of the surrounding hillside and the whole city of Kyoto.
While we stood marvelling at the sheer height of the cliff, our guide startled us by stating that people who wanted to commit suicide preferred to jump down the stage! On further enquiry we were surprised to learn that suicide is not considered a crime in Japan but is an honourable way of dying! In any case, the stage offers an enchanting view of the surrounding hillside and the whole city of Kyoto.
Part 6 of 10
Immediately behind the sanctuary is the Jishu shrine, dedicated to the God of Marriage. Placed in front of the main building of this beautiful shrine are two stones: one is called Mekara-ishi or the blind stone and the other is called Koiuranani-ishu or the stone of divine love. According to a legend, anyone who successfully walks from one stone to the other with both eyes closed, can have his heart’s desire fulfilled. It was quite a spectacle to see young and old, men and women, trying to grope their way from one stone to the other, causing merriment all around!
On the ceiling of the main building,there is an interesting painting of three dragons.There is a folklore doing the rounds that all three dragons sneak out every night to drink water from the Ottowa Falls that gushes from beneath the top of a precipice on the left of the shrine.
On the ceiling of the main building,there is an interesting painting of three dragons.There is a folklore doing the rounds that all three dragons sneak out every night to drink water from the Ottowa Falls that gushes from beneath the top of a precipice on the left of the shrine.
Part 7 of 10
The Ottowa Falls are actually three aqua ducts believed to carry sacred water,efficacious for — longevity (right duct), health (left duct) and learning (left duct). The water in the three springs is cool and clear,though somehow different in taste, and provides a refreshing finale to the long walk through the temple complex.
The other most important and undoubtedly the best known of all historic monuments in Kyoto is the Kinkakuji Temple also called the Templeof the Golden Pavilion. Surrounded by one of the best laid out gardens of the Kamakura period, it is a three-storied structure originally built in 1394 CE.The garden is a beautiful combination of the architectural styles of ancient Japanese temples and residential buildings.
The other most important and undoubtedly the best known of all historic monuments in Kyoto is the Kinkakuji Temple also called the Templeof the Golden Pavilion. Surrounded by one of the best laid out gardens of the Kamakura period, it is a three-storied structure originally built in 1394 CE.The garden is a beautiful combination of the architectural styles of ancient Japanese temples and residential buildings.
Part 8 of 10
The first floor is designed in the palace style of the Sujiwara period,the second floor in the Samurai house style of the Kamakura period and the third in the Buddhist sanctum style of the Zen sect. The second and third floors of the temple are painted with gold-over-lacquer, which gives it a beautiful amber hue.
The main temple is surrounded by a pond called Kyokorchi or Mirror Pond, which contains many large and small islands scattered all over.The reflection of the shining golden pagoda of the temple in the clear waters of the lake is an enchanting and unforgettable sight to behold.
The main temple is surrounded by a pond called Kyokorchi or Mirror Pond, which contains many large and small islands scattered all over.The reflection of the shining golden pagoda of the temple in the clear waters of the lake is an enchanting and unforgettable sight to behold.
Part 9 of 10
Priceless Heritage
In the northern part of the garden,there are several other structures of historical interest, such as a typical Japanese tea house called Sakkatei where Emperor Gomin, who established the present pavilion, used to drink tea.On the way out, we also found a small shrine that houses the guardian deity of the Kinkakuji Temple.
Many of the buildings surrounding the main temple were destroyed during the civil war, which raged in Japan during the 15th and 16th centuries,and were rebuilt during the Edo period. The main pavilion was also burnt down in 1950 by an incendiary fire caused by a young priest and was rebuilt in 1955.This fire incident,which had shocked the whole nation, inspired Yokiyo Mishima to write his famous novel The Golden Pavilion, which became an international bestseller.
In the northern part of the garden,there are several other structures of historical interest, such as a typical Japanese tea house called Sakkatei where Emperor Gomin, who established the present pavilion, used to drink tea.On the way out, we also found a small shrine that houses the guardian deity of the Kinkakuji Temple.
Many of the buildings surrounding the main temple were destroyed during the civil war, which raged in Japan during the 15th and 16th centuries,and were rebuilt during the Edo period. The main pavilion was also burnt down in 1950 by an incendiary fire caused by a young priest and was rebuilt in 1955.This fire incident,which had shocked the whole nation, inspired Yokiyo Mishima to write his famous novel The Golden Pavilion, which became an international bestseller.
Part 10 of 10
Besides these two famous temples,the other popular tourist attractions in Kyoto are the Ninjo Castle, Heian Shrine, Imperial Palace and the modern buildings of Kyoto Tower and Handicraft Centre. Ancient customs and traditions inherited by Kyoto are also reflected in traditional industries like Nishiju brocade,Yazen printing and Kiyomizu ware, which are all thriving today.
Although, owing to rapid modernisation,present-day Kyoto is losing much of its cherished manners and customs, it still retains the atmosphere of an ancient city.And it is because of this atmosphere that Kyoto has long been loved and cared for by all Japanese people as their spiritual home and“ the roots of all things Japanese.”
Although, owing to rapid modernisation,present-day Kyoto is losing much of its cherished manners and customs, it still retains the atmosphere of an ancient city.And it is because of this atmosphere that Kyoto has long been loved and cared for by all Japanese people as their spiritual home and“ the roots of all things Japanese.”
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