Majestic snow-clad mountains, beautiful turquoise lakes and unending serenity. Even a beach lover can't help but give in to enchanting Ladakh. Jaiprakash Gajbhiv shares his experience
“You'll never find such serenity anywhere. The air in Ladakh is full of it,” said a friend as I went about packing heavy woollens on a sultry afternoon, in Mumbai.
For me, serenity has always involved closing my eyes, sinking my feet in burning sand, raucous wind blowing in my face and the sound of waves crashing into my ears. The avid beach lover that I am, here I was boarding a plane to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, at 5 am, in the infamous Delhi heat. As we took off, a fellow traveller advised me to keep my heavy jacket, bought after a massive hunt in Mumbai's malls, handy. “You are landing in minus degrees dude,” he said, alluding to the chill that was about to greet us a few minutes later.
As I peered through the window, about 40 minutes into the flight, the enormity of what lay ahead began to take shape. As the plane zipped past, we passed by one snow-capped peak after another, glistening in the morning sun. The serenity my friend spoke about, started to unravel. There was not a soul around for aeons, just the drape of white. An eternal bliss! A white Christmas, always!
A land of high passes, Ladakh is one of the highest points in the Himalayas that man has settled in. It's not a regular climb up a hill; the lower oxygen levels in the air can, at times, leave you gasping for air. Unlike the beach, where the sun rays are soothing and give you a nice tan, here they bite and make sunscreen and glares a must-have. But what it demands in endurance, Ladakh more than gives back in the breathtaking beauty and majesty of nature, one of the best the grand Himalayas can offer.
After a day of acclimatisation, where I did nothing at the hotel, I set out to explore one of the most beautiful places in the world. While it has been on the tourist map since the 70s, Ladakh has mainly been popular amongst foreign tourists looking for a trek in the snow. Its popularity among Indian tourists increased a few years ago after its exotic locals were featured in the films Dil Se, Tashan and Three Idiots. Though winding, Ladakh's well-developed road network is in good shape, thanks to its strategic importance (close to China). Ironically, finding a washroom in this essentially military town is as difficult as finding a needle in a haystack (they are not strategically as important as the roads, according to the locals). The town itself looks like it is in the middle of a construction boom with hotels and even a flyover coming up, thanks to the sudden tourism spurt after the destination came into the limelight with Three Idiots.
The greenery may be sparse, but surrounded by a galaxy of snow-clad mountain tops, which shine in the sun and turn tranquil in the moonlight, the view from Leh city is impressive. Among them, Stok, the highest peak, is a favourite trekking destination. And as we drove out of town, I realised the vastness of the place.
Thiksey monastery
We drove through the mountains approximately 20 km from Leh, to the Thiksey monastery to attend the early morning prayers. Through the barren plain, dotted by small houses or the occasional yak following the herdsman, I marvelled at the intricateness of the faraway rock formations. At Thiksey, you can witness an elaborate ritual; chant prayers and admire the lamas, as young as six, who rush to serve everybody butter tea in a seventeenth-century prayer hall setting. Like temples in other parts of India, here the city and countryside is replete with Buddhist prayer wheels to be set in motion for a silent wish. Monasteries in Ladakh take you the bygone era, and bring you closer to a simple life with fewer wants.
Pangong Lake
The next day we began our uphill drive to Pangong lake, via the Changa La pass, the third highest motorable road in the world. The journey brought the mountain mesmerisingly closer. Though the drive to Pangong lake is a good three hours away and often bumpy, it is interspersed with flowing springs and a ubiquitous panoramic view. The turquoise waters of Pangong lake can make up for any arduous journey. The lake, popular for film shoots, brought me closer to what can be called 'meditative calmness'. You can spend hours looking at gulls and magpies flying over the brackish water ensconced in the rocky mountains.
Sangam, the confluence of Zanskar and Indus rivers
Our next visit was the Khardung La pass, the highest motorable road in the world, which offers a 360 degree view of three mountain ranges. The best kept secret about the place, as my guide told me is it that it is known as the Grand Canyon of India, a miniature version of the famed US ranges, which you encounter en route to the confluence of Zanskar and Indus rivers. We also passed Magnetic Hill, whose strong pull has been felt by pilots flying over it and a purple hill, which due to its high zinc content has a unique hue. A good photographic halt is near the Magnetic Hill, where you can pose in front of the muddy coloured ruins.
The best time to visit Ladakh is the summer season from June to September, when the snow melts and highways are open. Other times, it's a cold desert, ideal for those who want to enjoy the extreme cold. Travel companies such as MakeMyTrip offer several packages for those looking for a trip.
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