Metro Watch: Catalonia dreaming

Delhi

Catalonia dreaming
When it comes to fine wines and degustation menus, the Lodhi Restaurant in Delhi sets a new standard.

Suddenly it’s all about Spain these days. It’s the cuisine du jour. For years no one had heard of patatas bravas or jamon iberico, and now they’re cropping up all over the place—a cookbook here, a tapas bar there, perhaps some salsa lessons thrown in. So my wife and I came to the Lodhi Restaurant at the Aman expecting an all-singing Spanish experience—the brave potatoes, a jug of sangria and the soundtrack to Vicky Cristina Barcelona. But the Lodhi isn’t just another Spanish joint. The Lodhi isn’t “just another” anything.

It was a Saturday night and we were seated on the first of its two floors, facing the serenity pool. We’re talking carpet, comfy chairs and tall ceilings; tables that are far enough apart that all we could hear from our neighbours was the occasional groan of pleasure; and lighting that was so low, it felt like a ploy to enhance the other senses, of taste and touch and smell, like having sex with a blindfold on. In fact, if I had to pick a meal to eat blind, this would be it—the 11 course “degustation” menu which is just about decadent as it sounds.

The cuisine is from Catalonia, the bit on the north-east of Spain, which nudges both the south of France and the Mediterranean. So it’s a pot pourri of influences from the sea, the hills and the peasant food of the valleys. And after centuries of colliding gastronomies, no other region in Spain has quite as sophisticated a palate—it’s no accident that Ferran Adria’s El Bulli is in Catalonia. The show began with seared foie gras and pickled cherries, then onto celery soup, a rich saffron bomba rice with grilled scallops, followed by roasted snapper with fennel and roasted duck and lentils... Oh, I could go on—I did go on, in fact, groaning and swaying my head from side to side, thoroughly embarrassing my wife. I’m doing it now, just thinking about it.

But on this night of unrestrained gastronomy, this orgie de gourmandise, the star may have been the wine. Our wine buff Sourish goes into the wonders of the wine list in his column this month. There’s this sommelier at the Lodhi, a charming Australian lady called Kavita Devi (she had hippy parents) who introduced us to one spectacular wine after another. By May, the Lodhi will have 300 labels in its cellar, and the capacity for 5000 bottles, each of them from boutique, family-owned wineries within a circumscribed region, a circle encompassing Catalonia and its Mediterranean neighbours. We tried clean, crisp sauvignon blancs, rare pinot noirs and hearty cabs, with a few characterful sherries along the way, all out of Riedel glassware. When you go to the Lodhi—and you must—put yourself in Ms Devi’s hands. She knows whereof she drinks.

Address: The Aman Hotel, Lodhi Road, Delhi
Contact: 022-6692 7777
Open: 12-3 p.m., 7p.m.-1 a.m.
Meal for two: Rs 3,500 (food only)
Must try: Saffron Bomba Rice with Grilled Scallops and Picada (dressing of parsley, nuts and saffron), Catalan Fish Stew, Roasted Cherry Gratin

—Sanjiv Bhattacharya

Bangalore

Thai me up
 Benjarong hits the spot with authentic Thai home-cooking.

There’s a new lunch spot, gentlemen. If you like your Thai home-cooked and authentic but without the fussiness of fine dining, then give Benjarong a shot. It only opened three months back, and already the appetite is building for its one meal dish and set lunch on weekdays.

The idea is sound—a snug, uncluttered little restaurant with 96 covers, a relaxing vibe and a stress on authenticity in both food and the décor. The menu won’t knock your socks off, but at lunch you don’t need to be blown away. You need a breather, a place to and gather yourself for another afternoon battling a slowing economy. So, home-cooking is just the ticket. But at Benjarong, you get home-cooking with a twist.

With over 16 years of experience in Thai cuisine, Chef Regi Mathew is serving up dishes like Gai Hor Bai Taey (chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves and deep fried) and Poo Nim Tod Namprik Pow (soft shell crab tossed with roasted chilli paste). And if the chilli and fried chicken sounds a bit sharp for lunchtime, try the Som Tam, the Papaya Salad, straight from the streets of Bangkok.

And vegetarians need not steer clear—Benjarong is a great place to get your greens in whether it’s the Thai-styled paan appetizers called Mia Khum (made of spinach or lettuce leaf on which an assortment of peanuts, Thai ginger, fresh cut red chillies, roasted coconut, lemon pieces and chopped onions), the excellent veg clear soup, or the Phak Vollappa (stir fried vegetables with Thai sweet basil and chillies).

Address:1/3 Ulsoor Road, Bangalore.
Contact: 080-42066166
Open: 12:30 to 3:00; 7:00 to 11:45
Meal for two: Rs 2,200 (including beverages)
Must try: Poo Nim Tod Namprik pow, Som Tam

—Tejaswi Shekhawat

Mumbai

Pair Esentials
At Aura Restrobar in Powai, they’ve built the food menu around the drinks list rather than the other way around.

The whole obsession with pairing wines and whiskies with food began almost two decades ago with the Zodiac Grill, at that time the most expensive restaurant in Mumbai. Then stand-alone restaurants began take over the city and each made a big show of their wine lists.

Now the fad has been reversed—to pair the food with the drink, rather than the other way around. So, the booze becomes the priority. At least, that’s how they play it at the Aura Restrobar at Rodas Ecotel at Hiranandani Gardens, Powai, with the aptly titled new menu, “Nature of the bar”.

The ambience is comfortable and semi-casual, with a high ceiling and dim lights, large tables and purple couches. Occasionally they hold live musical and fashion performances here to give amateur artists a platform, so it’s a lively vibe. To suit the palate of its regulars, Chef Arindam went on a binge across the city and came up with a menu full of quick bites like the Koli’s bommalo!!, crispy Bombay duck that goes well with beer, and the Chicken Blu’dane, a char grilled kebab marinated with blue cheese that works with wine. For single malts, there’s the roasted Murgh Chargah, mixed with the Northern Frontier’s Chargah spice made with a paste of onions, tomatoes and red chillies. It’s nice to see drink get its honest billing sometimes, particularly at Aura with its permission to serve till 1.15 a.m.

Address: Central Avenue, Hiranandani Gardens, Powai, Mumbai 400076
Contact: 022 66936969 OPEN: 5 p.m. -1.30 a.m.
Meal for two: Rs 2,200 (exclusive of alcohol)
Must try: Tequila lime chicken wings, Chicken Blu’dane, Crumb fried crab claws, Salmon teriyaki and cheesy spinach

—Anamika Butalia