Varun Bahl’s couture is for the new Indian woman

Day 3 of India Couture Week (IWC) 2014 had designer Varun Bahl, presenting the second collection for the day. The collection called, India Moderne, is intended for the modern Indian woman assuming various roles in her life.
Speaking of his collection, Bahl said, “Today’s woman wants to wear India’s crafts and is keen to celebrate her traditions, but does not want to be defined by them and them alone”.
The collection: Redefining the Indian-wear staples, the collection comprised of modified versions of anarkalis, lehengas, sarees and saree-pants. Sarees with long bows at back of the blouses, asymmetrical and layered anarkalis coupled with long jackets were some of the highlights of the show. The designer played with the un-stitched fabric (saree) and superimposed the pleats in the front onto a pair of cigarette pants and slashed them diagonally exhibiting the construction of the trousers beneath the pleated layer.
When it came to the anarkalis, Bahl employed circular-cut patterns to achieve the same fit-and-flounce. Intricate silver work on white anarkali and lehengas added to the elegance of the bridal couture. Explaining the modern avatars of Indian cuts in his collection, Bahl said, “They are as influenced by the West as designers there are by us. I call this a global approach to fashion, where we all borrow freely from a great worldwide vocabulary of design.” He also emphasised that this wasn’t an Indo-Western collection.

Fabrics and colour palette: Western fabrics like bubble-crepe and damask were cut in and elements from his favourite shows were used such as rose motif, dainty appliques in velvet, intricate hand-embroideries in strips of chiffon and gota coupled with layered designs interplayed between the volume and the structure. Sheer flower-patterns in sleeves and leggings blended well with the traditional concept of outfits. Colours found widely in both European art and folk Indian crafts were played with. The show flagged off in black and then duck-egg blue, navy, ivory, silver and gold, mustard, fuchsia, and pale pink were merged in.

Accessories: Hair pulled back into graceful buns and sleek earrings in tanzantine and diamonds completed the look for most of the models. A few walked the ramp with glistening antique gold and polka neck-pieces that further accentuated the bridal lehengas. In tandem with the garments, towering pumps and stilettos were donned by the models adding to the grandeur of the collection.
Blink-and-miss appearance: Bollywood filmmaker Mahesh Bhatt was spotted at the venue, greeting Sunil Sethi, president, Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), the organiser of ICW. Bhatt had his own commitments and left soon after but not before posing for the shutterbugs.