Fashion: The men of couture
Dressing the ladies is an art that men have excelled in for decades now. Here's a look at their recent accomplishments and the sartorial treats that are yet to come.
Modern traditions
His name is synonymous with Bollywood and his label crossed the Rs 100 crore turnover mark last year - Manish Malhotra hardly needs an introduction in the Indian couture circle/fraternity. Traditional, with intricate embroidery and yet crafted for the woman with a modern mindset define his design aesthetic. "I speak the language of today, but I'm about tradition," he shares with Lifestyle, and it's no wonder that stars like Deepika Padukone, Vidya Balan, Bipasha Basu, Parineeti Chopra and Jacqueline Fernandez literally swear by his designs.
In the Capital to showcase his latest collection at the ongoing Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014 on Saturday evening, July 19, and there's a heightened buzz that Delhi-wallas don't get to experience as often as their Mumbai compatriots. This season, the master designer is reintroducing the vintage glamour from the 1950s onward, looking back fondly at the allure of garments in movies like Sahib Bibi Aur Gulam, Pakeezah and Mughal-e-Azam. Details like purana (old) gold, Kashmiri embroidery and mirrors are treated to the recognisable 'Manish Malhotra' aesthetic of floor length anarkalis and suits, sharara pants, saris and more. The theme is inspired from portraits, as he philosophically explains, "I've always felt that what ultimately lasts are photographs. Our images of today become our memories tomorrow, and that is what makes this moment timeless. The use of older craft too will become timeless over time."
Returning to the platform is a special moment for him, as he makes a foray to capturing the hearts of Delhi girls through it. "The Couture Week marks my journey in Delhi. My acceptance and the response to my brand have been phenomenal, and I'm so grateful for it every day." There is much to look forward to at the designers' show that promises to serve sartorial treat for the desi bride.
Here comes the bride
German megastar designer and creative director of fashion house Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld has carved a niche for himself as being at the vanguard when it comes to setting trends. A favourite with A-listers of the world, including Victoria Beckham, Cara Delevingne, Kristen Stewart, Rihanna, and pretty much every fashionista's dream closet, the genius of fashion created a stir last week at the Chanel haute couture fall/winter 2014 show in Paris as he escorted a seven-month pregnant model dressed in a baroque white and gold wedding gown.
Needless to say, the the message was very well received by audience members who cheered the mum-to-be in her elegant dress. Created of white neoprene fabric, for stretchability while still looking stylish, the gown featured an elaborate gold embroidered cape, a white and gold hat, a golden brooch in the front and a row of buttons running down the length of the gown.
Kitsch calling
Variety is the spice of life, and designer Manish Arora offers so much more to the creative bride with a distinct style and experimental edge. After having scorched the ramps with his artistic and funky vision in Paris, London, Hong Kong, and India, the man with a kaleidoscope style returns with his love for flair and excess at the Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014 with his show on the evening of Friday, July 18. Under the label 'Indian', the 'John Galliano of India' is ready with another wholesome serving of psychedelic colours, edgy styling and eclectic prints to recreate the Indian sensibilities in Western silhouettes.
The upcoming show promises a diverse collection, drawing inspiration from a variety of sources. While on the one hand goldplated detailing highlights against pastels like sea green, powder blue and ivory, other garments derive their creation from the famous Lights Festival in Belgium and Paris, the fantastical imagery translating into the use of sequins of different sizes for a prismatic effect. Luxurious fabrics like velvets and silk dupions, and a dark colour palette of maroons, blacks and emerald greens add to the mood of the collection.
Other stimulus from across the world include The Peacock Room in Castello di Sammezzano in Tuscany, Italy, majestic crowns worn historically by the monarchs across the world, the time-honoured tradition of folk-art in Japan called Temari, and of course the love for layered prints given added meaning by the diaphanous fabric. But there will be no showstoppers for his show. "I detest the concept of showstoppers. I believe clothes were, are and would always be my showstopper," he says. There's a lot to take in at the spectacle that Arora is famous for presenting, and whether or not every bride's first choice, his creations have all the makings of the future.
Colours of the spectrum
Wedding wear would be incomplete without an ensemble designed by couturier Tarun Tahiliani. His use of vibrant colours paired with embroidery has won the heart of many a bride for her big day, as well as celebrities like Madhuri Dixit, Shilpa Shetty, Sonam Kapoor, Gauri Khan and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan for the red carpet.
For the sixth edition of his annual Bridal Couture Exposition that was held over the weekend at The Four Seasons Hotel in Mumbai, Tahiliani presented a special collection titled 'Modern Mughals' in collaboration with World Gold Council, Azva, Forevermark, Swarovski, Diageo and Johnnie Walker Platinum Label 18 for bridesto-be this year.
Moving from warm hues like aubergine, gold, bronze, scarlet, maroon and orange, the designs stretch to blushes of light pink, jade, mauve and ivory that are inspired by American realist painter Edward Hopper. Expect to be treated to fabric like sheer silks, reshams, and tulle for ease of movement as well as luxurious details like brocade, zari work and Swarovski crystals on anarkalis, kalidars, trellis jackets, obi belts, lehengas, anarkali kurtas, and delicate mukaish dupattas. There are smart choices for men too, as the collection uses a plentiful of gold, pistachio, deep oranges and an even wilder punk palette for luxurious linings - the Mughal motifs depicting processions in digital print being one of the indulgent ones. The exposition will take place from August 2-4 at The Couture Studio in Chattarpur.