Blouses have never had it better. These days there could be no bigger fashion faux pas than teaming a fancy sari with a plain and simple blouse. This is the day of the designer blouse, where the blouse has become the centrepiece of the traditional six-yard ensemble, and where just about anything goes with regards to its design, cut and style.
“Saris have come a long way in terms of style and fabric and nowadays so has the blouse. Almost all my customers, want ‘something different’ when they come to tailor blouses for dressy events, even if it’s only attaching a few stones here and there and a pair of doris at the back. The idea is to look different but classy at the same time,” says Titty Thomas of Inner-U boutique. Mollywood costumier and designer Sakhi Thomas agrees and adds: “Designer blouses match the new trend for simple saris that don’t have any form of embellishment. It’s more of a trend for occasion wear than it is for daily wear. It’s really a trend for the young-at-heart and the possibilities are endless, especially if you are a bit adventurous with fashion. Design and style-heavy blouses usually look best when paired with chiffons, georgettes and plain silk saris, which drape well. They make you look leaner and give a less cluttered appearance.”
The trend, apparently, picked up with the coming of inexpensive brocade material to match saris. “It was the height of fashion to pair brocades, well, with just about everything, first with nets and supernets [mix of cotton and silk yarns] and then silks, Kotas, jutes, Pashmina silks… It just snowballed from there, with people switching to other materials, fabrics and weaves for their blouses, in likely – and unlikely – combinations and contrasts,” explains costume designer Sameera Saneesh. The trend also picked up when old and antique saris, particularly Kanchivarams, came back in style.
“Designer blouses give a new look to such pieces. Also, these days we see family members or friends often sharing saris. While one person usually wears the blouse that comes with the sari, the others opt for designer blouses in complementary or contrasting colours,” explains Maithri Anand of Vedhika boutique.
The cut and design of the blouse obviously depends on body shape, but accents with tassels, ruffles, embellishments on the back; sleeveless, full-sleeves, three-quarter sleeves; high necks, halter necks, off-shoulders; bikinis, corsets, noodle straps, knots at the back, princess cuts, jackets, waistcoats and the like are all in vogue. “Whatever designs and embellishments were being done on saris is now being done on the blouse,” says Maithri. For example, embroidery such as kanta work, lace, mirror work and cutwork, once done mainly on saris, is in style for blouses. And that’s apart from mixing and matching various weaves, colours and fabrics, “the quirkier the better and not necessarily complementary,” in Sameera’s opinion.
Maithri gives examples. “Kalamkari prints go well with bold soft silks and mirror work with kanchivarams; full sleeves in sheer material or lace with embroidery here and there are good with chiffons. Actress Vidya Balan teamed an orange blouse in the cut of a jacket to go with a tartan printed sari. Recently, I teamed a three-quarter sleeve, tribal print white blouse to go with a plain yellow silk sari. Then again, it all depends on individual style.”
Often times, these blouses tend to be expensive to stitch/buy – at times even over the price of the saris themselves. Says Titty: “Prices usually depend on the quantity and type of of hand-work that goes into a blouse. It can cost anything above Rs. 800, often to a few thousands.”
Sameera says that such blouses also have a sell-by-date. “More often than not these blouses tend to be a one-time wear option and are largely meant for occasions.”
Sakhi, meanwhile, points out that many of these blouses would be uncomfortable to wear. “Besides, stitching and fit get complicated with these designs and alteration is a hard task when you lose or gain weight,” she explains.
Sakhi’s tips
*Contrast colours are in.
*Neutral shades such as gold and silver can be used with multiple saris.
*Embellishing with embroidery, sequence, beads, or stones.
*Peaked cups are out.
*Back open is preferred
*Thanks to soaps, doris on the shoulder are a must.
