True blue Rajasthan and the grandeur of Horse Polo

Rajasthan is in my blood. I have spent time as a child in Jaipur, and though I might have left the desert state behind for lands distant but the tug of fate drew me back once again when an invitation came for the British Polo Day to be held at Jodhpur. There was an air of anticipation as our flight began its descent to the 'Blue City'. As the captain announced the landing, I switched off the laptop, and rested my head against the seat. As I looked up I saw a woman perform a yoga asana to unblock the pressure in her ears-now that's a first! Thanks to the lord I do not have to resort to such measures, my hearing aids take care of that!

Leaving behind the sleepy airport, we snaked our way through the Jodhpur traffic and reached the hotel sooner than expected. Hari Mahal, a property of Taj Vivanta, tickled my senses. Though I am by habit a budget traveller, if and when I get to live in a room which overlooks a pristine pool, am able to sleep in a big bed with a lot of pillows, watch films at night on a large plasma television and get fresh towels everyday, I cave in very happily.

Umaid Bhavan Palace of Jodhpur. Photo courtesy: Maps of India

The next morning, in the midst of staring into the pool longingly from my window and daydreaming of taking a lazy swim, I suddenly came forth with almost a sense of shock at the reason of my visit here-the day's polo match between the Eton College and Mayo Boys College. On the polo grounds it was a fusion of colours as far as the eyes could see, both in terms of fashion and culture. Vintage cars from the private collection of Mahraja Gaj Singh found themselves parked with children sitting in them, squealing with delight, till someone made his sudden presence known and the children found a new source of distraction.

A giant painted in different colours and decked up with vibrant scarves. Yes, a giant he was, but Ramu was a gentle elephant. He looked every bit of a character from a child's imagination.

There was an announcement of the arrival of the teams on the ground. Gracefully galloping across the lush green ground against the backdrop of the clear sky, the horses and the players, exuded grace and confidence. I had little knowledge of the sport, and whatever I did possess I owed to my father who had served in the army and knew horses well. I joined the spectators as the game picked up tempo with the crowd cheering the players on. The match ended in favour of the Eton College team. During the prize distribution ceremony, I could not help but eavesdrop on a conversation of a group who were discussing the highly anticipated dinner at Mehrangarh Fort later that evening. And so off I trotted towards the venue.

The fort was beautifully lit.There were trumpets playing, guards positioned in ethnic wear and the steep slopes of the fort had a surprise in store for guests in every corner. One moment, there were fire breathers, blowing hot flames and the next there were folk dancers twirling in colourful dresses with pots balanced on their heads. The polo event followed by this grandeur gave a sense of truly royal feeling as rose petals dropped softly from the windows of the fort. The bar was set up under the starry night and drinks flowed generously.

With a glass in my hand I walked towards the cannons that were placed against the boundary of the fort. The entire city twinkled before my eyes under the dark canopy of the night. This was a rare sight for me, as I turned around to look at the gathering that had gotten together to celebrate the heritage of Jodhpur and spirit of polo, a realisation dawned upon me-the
British Polo Day is what the events in Hamptons are to the elite of the US.

The next morning, Umaid Bhawan's gardens were a place of beauty as I bit into a freshly prepared croissant and sat under the sun. Lady Violet Manners, daughter of the Duke of Rutland seated across the table told us how the princely town of Jodhpur provided the perfect setting for a sport like polo that has been played here for centuries.

While driving to the polo ground to witness a match between the British Army and the President's bodyguards, I recollected what Lady Violet had said. Jodhpur did have the charm to make the sport look royal.

Sitting on large cushions with the organisers who had become friends of mine in a short span of time, we cheered for the President's bodyguards and were jubilant when they won. When the match ended, the realisation of our stay in Jodhpur coming to an end became all the more real. Certain cities leave their mark on you, imprint their memories on your mind to be recollected at a time when certain elements come together to form the same sense of place or magic. Jodhpur and the sport of polo though had left its colour on me-I left feeling blue. True blue.

It was in 1889 that the seeds of polo were sown in Jodhpur. Photo courtesy: Rajasthan Tourism

It would seem that polo is Jodhpur's favourite sport. The relationship between the sport and the city has been long- standing. It was in 1889 that the seeds of polo were sown in the Rajasthan city when Sir Pratap Singh, younger brother of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, invited Col. Stuart Beatson of the Bengal Lancers to help him raise the Jodhpur Lancers.

The British connection with the sport continued when Lord Mountbatten played his first game of polo in Jodhpur when he accompanied Prince Edward on his 1921-1922 tour of India. Mountbatten had to step in at the last minute to replace an injured player and although he only hit the ball three or four times, he wrote in his diary that he was "absolutely dippy about polo, which in my opinion is the best game in the world." The game has been passed on through generations and is still played by British royalty and aristocracy.

At a Glance

GETTING THERE

Jodhpur is well connected with major cities via road, rail and air. You could drive down to Jodhpur via Jaipur which is 344 km away.

Stay At the Taj Vivanta Hari Mahal;(tel: 0291 2439 700; www.vivantabytaj.com) The room rent starts from 12,000 per night inclusive of breakfast. Taj also owns another luxury hotel, the Umaid Bhawan Palace, (tel: 0291 2510 101; www.tajhotels.com) one of the largest private residences in the world. Umaid's room rent starts from 253,500 per night inclusive of breakfast.

EAT In Jodhpur, Janta Sweet Home is situated at Sivanchi Gate. It is renowned for its local delicacies such as mirchi badas and mawa ki kachori. If you are in a mood for authentic Chinese, then Good Earth at Taj Vivanta Hari Mahal is the only authentic Chinese restaurant in the city.

Shop Antiques, bandhani and footwear are some of the items on the shopping list of most tourists who visit Jodhpur. While, Sogati Gate area is famous for its tie-dye sarees, Station Road is where you should be heading for leather shoes. For handicrafts and textiles visit Tripolia Bazaar.

GOOD TO KNOW

Apart from the Mehrangarh Fort which overlooks the entire city, another popular destination is the Arna Jharna, a desert museum that showcases the culture of Rajasthan with musical shows and art displays.