- India
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The backdrop of a ramp at a fashion show is always a statement. Some designers like to start their story from there using elaborate props, while others choose to keep it simple and drama-free. At designer Pankaj and Nidhi Ahuja’s show, presented by Fiama Di Wills on Day Four of WIFW, it was just very hard to keep one’s eyes off the wall behind the ramp. Plastered from ceiling to floor were giant-sized playing cards and it looked as though a ferocious wind had brought them there. This was a signal to the drama that was set to unfold. And it did, with a beautifully choreographed act that saw actors depict a bull-fighting scene on an all-black ramp, which was split into two. The fierceness of the torero (Spanish matador), the embroideries of his uniform and the colours of his cape, found their way into this evening wear collection, “House of Cards”, which comprised long jackets, fitted knee-length dresses, boleros, capes, and slim-fit pants.
If the silhouettes saw Spanish influences, the prints drew inspiration from a deck of playing cards. The queen and king were recurring motifs in patterns ruled by spades, hearts, clubs and diamonds and the designers carried forward the intricate vintage designs that frame a card using their signature applique style . Spades and clubs showed up on pants and jackets.
Though we wondered initially about the connection between playing cards and Spain, we were later enlightened that the designers had delved into the history of playing cards — how they were invented in China and evolved in Spain and Portugal. Though the print dresses were a tad reminiscent of past work by the two, it was the second half of the collection, with its brass-buttoned high-waist pants (some even worn with suspenders), jackets and capes with intricate gold cord-work embroideries, that won us over. The Spanish flamboyance showed up in the colour palette with matador-red, but also made space for a softer hue like powder blue.